These are my early remotes, from left to right:

Philco mystery control
Zenith space-commander 400 (1958)
Zenith space-commander 300 (1960 and 61)
Zenith space-commander 300 (1963 and 65)
Zenith space-commander 400 (1965)
Zenith space-commander 600 (1974, 75, and 76)
RCA remote controls (1960, and also 60)

That Philco looks like the one that goes with a late 30's Philco radio. You have some nice 'motes there:)

Unfortunately, I don't have a radio to go with it. A 1941-42 Philco console with the mystery control and the beam-of-light phonograph is one of the few consoles (radio or tv) that I don't already have that I'd still really like to find.

Is this the type of console you are looking for? I was just about to post it on Craigslist. It's been half-ass restored with a few new caps. (Not by me) It hums with a little tuned-in audio in the background. Model # is 41-280 I believe.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...2/802270a9.jpg

Thanks, but I already have the 41-295, and I already have lots of consoles, so I'm really just looking for one of the remote control models.
About the '74, there's good news, and bad news. The good news is I took the tuner apart cleaned the switch that controls which channel number lights up, and now all the channel numbers light up. The bad news is after I put it back together I just got 3 horiz lines on the screen, like it was stuck in the setup mode. So I go around to the back of the set and start shaking the setup switch thinking it's just gummed up, it has no effect. Then I see an orange light and smoke from under the chassis, I quickly unplug, and I haven't looked at it to see what happened yet.

The '63 is still working good, I'm currently just waiting for one electrolytic to come that I didn't have, so I can say I did a complete recap of all electrolytics, and have it be very unlikely I'll have to take it apart again.

Actually the horiz hold problem I had with this set after it was first on for about 30min was caused by a resistor, the vert size problem by electrolytics, but but they're such a common problem, I figure if one goes bad why take the chance, and just not change all of them? - Although by 1970 b/w Zenith held out for 5 years of regular use before I had a bad electroyltic, and I've been using my b/w '65 Zenith nearly every night for several months now on the original electrolytics with no problems.

The '63 b/w is back together and working, I just have to find something to use for those 4 rubber pads on the bottom, and I'll be done with this one.

So what's going on with the '74 is this resistor lighting up bright red in the power supply (circled in 1st schematic), and no vertical at all (2nd schematic)

I have it working again:banana: I circled the wrong resistor above, it was R325 that was heating up. I checked and found that 24v source was only at around 1v. That zener diode was shorted, I replaced it, and the new one shorted too. But then I got another zener, and changed that regulator transistor, it's working now.

Now the power tuning is only going down, it seems to get stuck when it tries to go up, it sounds liken a mechanical problem to me. And the convergence could use a little touching up. Otherwise everything seems ok now.

Why on earth would an overloaded resistor light up as yours did? :scratch2: Most (nearly all) of the overloaded resistors I've ever seen will either smoke or burn in half--right across the middle, before they ever have a chance to get so hot they actually glow. Yours was obviously so badly overloaded it smoked, and from your description there must have been one heck of a lot of smoke coming from that resistor while it was glowing. All I can say is, the resistor must have been carrying much, much more current than it was meant to, if it actually lit up red. I bet it burned up inside a minute.

The strange thing is, that resistor didn't burn out at all. I was all ready to replace it, and it checked good at 5ohms, so I didn't. My only thought was that it was a wirewound resistor, and maybe those just don't burn out the same.

Fixed the power tuning, touched up convergence, put it all back together. That Hawaii-5-0 pic I took doesn't really show off how good the color picture is on this set, I'll have to try another one of something else later.

:thmbsp:

I have to touch up my avanti convergence, did you have a manual on how to go or did you have prior exp on that board?

It has 4 rows of three controls each, each row is of 3 is labeled: left, right, top, bottom. The controls aren't labeled vertically, but the leftmost control in each row is blue horizontal. Middle is red/green vertical. Right is red/green horizontal.

I am still a bit confused, if I get a pic of the screen with my issue would you pls give me some guidance on which controls. I dont have my camera handy but will see if I can get a pic this weekend with a cross hatch pattern.

I think that picture shows off your set rather well; it's amazing what a slight amount of touching up will do to improve the picture on these older sets (yours was made 36 years ago, the year before I graduated high school). At first I was wondering how you were getting Hawaii 5-O without a converter box (I don't know if any of Detroit's UHF stations carry old reruns anymore--I know the ones here near Cleveland don't and haven't since they became network affiliates--channel 43 is MyTV and channel 55 is The CW--some years ago, so about the only way one can get old reruns back to about the '60s nowadays is on DVD), then I zoomed in on the pic and saw that the image was the setup menu for the Season 5 DVD of the program.