Who's CT100 is this?
Just spotted on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rca-Ct-100-1...ypes=og.shares If the URL above does not work search ebay for item number 281658020830 Shortened URL here: http://tinyurl.com/kzwrqh2 I know it's a CT100 but the asking price seems a bit on the high side? |
Good 15GPs are very scarce to put it mildly. Unrestored CT-100s were fetching 10K a few years back. I could see it fetching that price or close to it.
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Whoa, still under vacuum.
It'll be interesting to see where this goes. |
It's only an hour away from me, if anyone's interested in buying it and needs someone to see it in person......
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The owner of this CT-100 named Pat contacted me thru my website. He told of the problems he was experiencing w/his CT-100. I replied that I am more of a color tv historian than a technician and referred him to Videokarma's early color page. I also mentioned my CT-100 is on the disabled list. Nice bright raster but having focus problems. I wish he had posted a photo of the complete set. And the previous photo when the set was working.
-Steve D. |
I am the seller. I had posted 12 pictures and all but 2 disappeared. I am out of the country so I ended the auction and will resist with all pictures when I get home so stay tuned. This issue made me see that it needs to be with someone who can maintain issues as they come up. Does anyone have any idea what the fix could be? I need to turn the brightness all the way up and can only get a blue screen.
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Probably bad peaking coils (the dreaded white crusty ones), mine was full of them and so was my 21-CT-55. The matrix output section alone has 6 of them, if not replaced they all eventually go bad. There's others though: in the luma path there's 2, the color sync section has one, demod, IF and nearly every other circuit they are present. If those were already changed out, it could still be bad caps. I redid a CTC-7 a while back with all new caps, and a few have gone bad since then. TV's are brutal on caps, especially the power supply and horizontal output circuits.
I think what you need to do is have someone stop by with knowledge of these sets, instead of selling it. It's likely to be something easy to fix, after all the CRT works and that in my book means it's totally worth bringing back to life. If it were full of air, I'd tell you to sell it. |
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Thanks, Kevin, stromberg67 |
The schematic is here.
http://oldtubes.net/library/free_man...assis_CTC2.pdf And further service info and alternate versions of the schematic can be found here. http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_sc...color.html#rca Get or borrow an oscilloscope and trace the signal forward tube by tube from the DVD player's input (to the set) to the base of the CRT. The point in the chain where you loose the signal will be just past the fault. So once you loose the signal back track part by part until you find the exact place the signal is lost. Then test and or replace all parts in the area of the failure. Signal tracing like this is probably the most simple and direct approach there is to this....Voltage and resistance checks on all the video stage tubes and CRT versus the schematic may also help move you towards a solution. |
The cabinet number is 26. The tech is KS
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I would love to keep it but I see now how difficult and costly to keep them working. Probably needs to be owned by someone who knows how to fix when it goes down
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Why do these things always have to be half way across that galaxy. Would love to have it. :yes:
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I would love to have it also, but can't afford big money. I could do the trip however. Post full shots when you have the time. I do have access to a retired RCA technician who worked on your set back in the day.
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My CT-100 that I restored last summer had the same problem at first light, and it was a bad resistor in the CRT screen/brightness divider chain. However, my set still produced a (color) picture of sorts with the master brightness all the way up and the color gains up. I don't think that any single peaking coil can destroy the picture, just remove R, G, B, or luma. Also ... my set was frequently displaying the same symptom as the OP's last fall. The set was perfect! The cause was a bad cable connecting video to the input of the RF modulator; changing to a station with no signal restored perfectly normal video noise. |
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Kevin |
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