In the days before video games they were a big supplier to the department store badges (going back to radios pre-WWII). Sears or Wards was their biggest customer, and there were plenty of smaller chains that bought from them...One could say they were probably the biggest electronics maker that did not sell product badged under their own name.

Actually, they did sell some radios badged under their own name. http://www.radioatticarchives.com/radio.htm?radio=12383


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Neat. Learn something new every day.:D

No thread jacking right now please, I'm hoping for useful information.

Well it is a GE I have only seen the chassis in 19" sets
& the porta color 2. ( ch# JA, QA etc)
Orange mallory cap seems to be the safety cap so OK. White one is
probably boost filter.
CRT socket can be replaced by any delta socket but double check the colors.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Everyone except me, seems to make the mistake that W-G made products for Sears. There must've been some bad blood between W-G and Sears.
Sears buyers were known to cut the price per unit, after the firm set up a line for their product. :sigh:
I have a Wells Gardner badged model 0CM, built in Sept 1935. A fine performing, interesting set.

I thought so, especially when the HOT heat sink matched your desciption. Hopefully the Wells-Gardner tube job discussion can be taken elsewhere now.

I'll need to put resistors in series with some replacement socket leads. I took out the white cap already and cleaned it up for a better photo.

I wonder if those resistors are stock, or some repairman's kludge?

Probably stock, I saw resistors in series with a CRT socket once before. Not right in the socket though. This setup may be unique to the consoles considering zeno's comment.

Edit 1: Scratch that, I just found out the resistors are normally hidden, at least in early SS sets with standalone CRT sockets. I just dissected a Zenith CCII CRT socket and it has the same value resistors, just with different tolerances.

Edit 2: Still not quite right, looks like the bad socket used to have a cover, and the resistor going to the focus pin is a different value than the one in the Zenith socket. I had to scratch off the Bondo (?) to find out. Every resistor from the bad socket has a 10% tolerance band, those in the Zenith socket are all over the place.

With no small effort I pulled the pins from the bad socket, noting the wire positions beforehand.

Shoot me some detail photos of your channel/Fine tuning knobs - place a quarter or penny in the pix for scale - no loonies....:D I probably have NOS replacements. I have 2 shops AND a distributor's stock of GE parts, as well as GE Engineering samples and "projects."

That Vertical module? I have a prototype :D and may have a NOS spare as well. I remember having one, but it may be for the 19JA sets.

One thing I don't have is the safety cap - I sold the NOS ERO/Roederstein blue film types on eBay (audiophools love them) along with the generic marked (2SX...) transistors. I probably have every transistor in your set in NOS condition as well, from 2 maintenance kits for JA/QA and MA/MB sets alone.

EDIT: Lemme check my CRT sockets too - have some GE ones. I gotta do the DMV thang tomorrow, and will be home later than usual.

Anything is of course, yers for postage, Eh?

Now we're talkin'! Would a toonie do? Scratch that, found a quarter.

Considering the condition of these knobs it's a wonder the cabinet didn't turn to mush while in storage. It's in fantastic shape and the part I cleaned looks really good. There's a small faded spot, two small chips out of the laminate in a top corner and a tiny bit of peeling at the base in the back. A furniture touch-up marker and a bit of glue will bring it up to snuff.

So 19Q8 is an exact match for a GE chassis number? A Google search turned up nothing.

I don't know what to think of the orange drop in there, it's just a 2-lead job so the safety interlock was probably jumped, but I don't know where to look for it in this case.

The CRT came back fairly well on normal filament voltage alone. I auto-cycled each gun and now it's testing quite strong. Fortunately the deteriorated HV anode cap was screw-set. I got rid of that, cleaned up the crap I could reach and washed the tar off my hands. I'll check behind the yoke soon enough.

Sounds good to me. :thmbsp: Knob detail photos here:

Not anymore, Flickr account closed and replaced.

The fine tuning knobs are identical.

Scratch " any delta tube" I forgot older ones have seperate
resistors & SG's. The Zenith CC ones are fine, values
are not critical. All I remember had 1K as the value. Fail point
has always been rot & arcing at the focus pin caused by too much
focus ( 22-5001) or very humid enviroment.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Yup, all 1K in the GE other than the focus pin. If I can see the colors properly the focus resistor is 3.9K.

By the way, the tag that's supposed to cover the HOT (it fell off on one side) says it carries 1KV. I wondered how much juice a typical HOT case carries since I accidentally touched the one in my Electrohome. I can easily get more of a jolt from touching everyday objects during cool, dry weather. I'll take that over line voltage any day.

VHF/UHF channel change knobs, I've got. I'm all out of Fine Tuning, apparently. For the VHF, a transplant of the legend dial from a short shaft knob to the long shaft knob will have to happen, but two spankin' new knobs are yours. I'll contact you via PM for the postage.

Your chassis seems to be a 19QB. A Portsmouth plant chassis, shipped north to be matched to a Canadian cabinet. The QB chassis is nearly identical to the JA chassis in layout and parts. Sams 1471 covers the QB chassis, and would likely be helpful.

GE made so many sets for export, Ethan Allen, and others that the chassis often blur the lines between them.

I also have your CRT socket - NOS, from a disintegrating GE parts bag. DO all of your leads have female sockets on them where they connect to the chassis? The only markings on this one is APCO EIA 1210, with some patent numbers....