Scored an Admiral 19A11
 

Scored this today. Paid a whopping $25 for it. It'll be a while before I get to restoring it.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psc3etv5pq.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psus0vehhf.jpg

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Noice! Looks real clean.

They are hard to find in good condition. Mine (still in queue) has a broken corner underneath. But JB Weld should fix it.

Congratulations, especially on the price! Even if the CRT is bad or weak, they are out there.

Thanks for the nice comments.

The story behind this TV is that the neighbor's husband died and the elderly widow didn't want to be alone so she decided to move in with her daughter. So she downsized and the seller bought it and a few other pieces before the estate sale.

While I'm waiting on parts for the Zenith and better weather to take care of the cabinet, I decided that this would be my next project.
I brought it in and put it on my bench and after the customary pictures, I pulled off the back. Dirty but nice! No rust anywhere. It is a 19A1-SA chassis with a serial number of 38290. It has the rear mounted Vert. Lin pot and the extra .005uf 6Kv cap coming off the Vert. Cent pot.

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More pictures of the chassis.

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A good look underneath revealed a virgin chassis! I could not see anywhere where there was a component changed. As a matter of fact, it had all Admiral tubes except a RCA 5Y3GT LV rectifier tube. I pulled the HV cover, I was the first one to ever remove it, and while being a little dirty it looked factory "fresh" too.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_8873a.jpg

Time to test the CRT. I plugged it into my Philco 50T-702 and got this:

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_8890a.jpg

Yup, the CRT looked pretty good. Time to order some HV caps and stuff I need. This looks like it'll be a good restoration. BTW, the cabinet is crack free and with some small scratches that should buff out.

Very nice buddy :)

Does anybody have a better scan of Sams 59-2 than what's on the ETF website?
Thanks.

I could use the schematic only from Sams 59-2. Thanks.

Very nice set!

I'm going to add the retrace blanking circuit that Phil shows on his website. It shows a 250pf 1Kv cap and a 22K resistor. What type of cap should I use? A ceramic, mica, other?

https://antiqueradio.org/Admiral19A12Television.htm

The biggest problem that I see with the ETF copy is missing info in the page fold.... just where does that B+ connect, anyway? :scratch2:

Perhaps this will help

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4692/...19bd56_z_d.jpg


jr

Thanks guys.

I've ordered the HV caps, 630V caps, and picked the other stuff from Mouser. They are only a 20 minute drive away! Will Call so there is no shipping. :banana:

Working on stuffing the 3 section E-Cap C1. Pics to follow.

Been busy over the holiday. Things have settled down a bit.
I re-stuffed C1 with 3 Nichicon 10k hour caps in the usual manner that I do.

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Then I labeled all the components like I usually do.

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I noticed that the 3 wires coming from the HV coil going to the Osc. 6V6 tube were hard and the insulation just crumbled away. So I'm in the middle of replacing those wires along with the HV wire going to the plate cap of the 1B3GT. That wire was cracking too.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_8978a.jpg

Very cool set! I've been after a tabletop set like that for a while. Those crumbly rubber wires remind me of that Philco radio I restored

Continued success with the resto. That is one of the best of the small early post-war 7" sets. I was watching mine the other day and they perform so well. This one was from the son of the original owner, from the original house and never stored away! The picture, as usual, looks more washed-out than it really is:

I think it is a cool set too! Yeah, the Philco crumbly wires on 38 and 39 radios!

Thanks for the kind words. Your set looks awesome!

An update of my progress. The HV caps came in so I started with the HV section. I replaced all the caps and resistors, and thouroughly cleaned all surfaces. I removed the phenolic board and pots and cleaned them too.

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I then installed a fuse holder in the AC line going to the ON/OFF switch. I used an existing holes and just removed the wire from the interlock and folded it back to the fuse holder and installed a new brown wire from the fuse holder to the interlock.

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I then installed C1 and wired that.

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Then C2 was replaced with a terminal strip and 2 E-Caps. The ground terminal was soldered to the chassis like all ground terminals are. The terminal strip was placed in the same location as the clip was for C2. The wires were then just tacked in place so I could do a power up.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9009a.jpg

I'm replacing the components in the Horizontal and Vertical sections right now. I thought that I would include a picture of how I arrange things when I'm doing a section of the chassis.

First thing I do is take some close up pictures of the area. Then using some lined notebook paper and a pencil, I draw out what is connected. For example let's say a tube we'll call V12. I draw a circle and place the key way and 8 dots which represent the terminals. I then draw a resistor going from pin 1 and the other end of the resistor I list where it goes like #3 V13, and so on. I also draw in what ever is connected to that terminal like wires, coils, etc.

Then I clip out the components that I'll be changing out. I lay then next to the chassis then I measure the resistance of the clipped out resistors and record them on my spreadsheet. I then get a new resistor and measure that and again record it on my spreadsheet. I dig out the the new caps too. I placed the new components next to the old ones. I then clean up the terminals and clean them using an acid brush and acetone. I then make any repairs needed to wiring etc.

Then I start to install the new components. It's like building a kit now! After soldering, I again clean the terminals with acetone.

Then take a break.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9015a.jpg

The Horizontal and Vertical sections are finished. Today I'll power it up and see my progress.

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I did the audio section today. Here are the before and after pictures.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content...00_9025a-1.jpg

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Today I worked backward through V9 the Ratio Detector, V8 the sound IF, V7 the Video Amp, V6 the video detector, V5 the 3rd Video IF, and V4 the 2nd Video IF. All that's left is V3 the 1st Video IF and the Tuner.

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BTW, I got a original Sams Photofact for this TV. It's Sams 59-2. I scanned it and sent Steve at ETF a compressed pdf copy that is much better than what's up there now. Looks like Steve did some further compression and the copy isn't all that good.

Never fear. I've uploaded the full resolution pdf in my dropbox. You can enlarged it at least 400X and it is still very readable. Here's the link. Caution large file @16Mb.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o0f1yge36v...059-2.pdf?dl=0

OK, I have a concern that I need cleared up. There are these ceramic capacitors used in this TV, mostly in the IF stages. I call them "Hot Dog" caps because they look like hot dogs. Seeing they are ceramic I haven't paid too much attention to them when I do a recap. On this chassis I'm down to the last tube, tube V3, and decided to check some of these caps because they were already disconnected while I'm replacing the resistors. Well, to my amazement the 5 I checked were well out of tolerance......I think.

According to the the Sams parts list, C12-C16 (the ones I checked) can use Aerovox 1468, Cornell-Dubilier 1W series which both are mica caps. I looked in the 1951 Allied catalog and the C-D mica caps have a tolerance of +/- 20% while there was no tolerance listed in the Allied catalog for the Aerovox caps.

In the picture of the schematic below I have penciled in the readings I get for each capacitor. They are:
C12 - 1623pf
C13 - 1431pf
C14 - 1931pf
C15 - 1707pf
C16 - 1230pf

Should I check all of those hot dog caps and replace them too? I've never replaced those before because I've always thought they were good. Now I'm not so sure.

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Those are ceramic caps used as RF bypass and coupling and very reliable. Probably the most reliable components in vintage electronics. The value is not critical. I would leave them alone.

Also, don't forget that you capacitor checker leads could be adding to the value of these capacitors. They are very low in value. Try separating the leads and measure them again.

As Bob mentioned, I would be inclined to leave them alone.

OK guys I left them alone. I appreciate your feedback.

Guys, I've got another problem! Some background first.
all through this recap and recarb, when I powered up the TV, the picture seemed weak. I had to twiddle the Contrast, Brightness, V. Hold, and H. Hold controls just right to get a picture. The picture was always a bit unstable. It would flicker and when I adjusted the Contrast control, the V. Hold would need readjusting. Though I think this might be a nature of the beast. As I went through the recap, the picture got just a little bit better. Then when I was finished with all the recapping, the picture was still a bit unstable but the flickering all but stopped.
Then I changed the 8 resistors in the tuner. Now here's my problem. I have very good audio but no video. I have a raster but no video. No amount of twiddling the controls will produce a picture. I even tried another CRT with the same results. I replaced the 6AU6 Video Amp tube and even changed 6AL5 Video Detector tube and still no joy. I checked the 2 coils (Sams L14 and L15) or ( Riders, Wallace, and Admiral L9 and L10) and they checked good for continuity.
Could this problem be caused by something in the tuner? I figured that with good audio, the tuner was doing its job.
Any ideas as to where to look?
In the meantime, I'll hook video directly to the Video Amp and see what I get.
Thanks for your help.

Here's a link to the Wallace schematic. Thanks to Phil Nelson.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vtr06fdq1z...opped.jpg?dl=0

OK, when I hook the video directly to the Video Amp tube, I get decent video.
Then I went back to the original set up and now I'm getting a very faint picture.

I'm thinking that maybe I need to just do the IF/Video alignment.

Can a problem with the tuner cause this problem? Just wondering.

Please don't mess with video alignment without first checking for plate and screen voltage on the IF tubes, and that their heaters are lit.

The set uses intercarrier sound. So you'd think that with a dead video IF stage, it'd kill the sound too. But since the sound carrier is FM, it could be going through by capacitive coupling.

Fair enough. I'll check those voltages.

OK, here's what I measured. There was no signal to the antenna terminals.

Also the "mains" was only at 114VAC. Hence the low voltage on the heaters and B+ was only 237V. When the mains was brought up to house voltage of 124VAC, the heaters went up to 6vac and B+ went to 257V.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9061a.jpg

Got to get some plate voltage to pin 2 of the 6J6 for openers...perhaps the 15 k resistor in A4 is open?

jr

Yeah, I agree. I checked that resistor. It ohmed out to 21K. I'll pull A4 and replace that resistor too.

I went through the tuner last night in great detail. No problems found except that resistor.
I have another tuner and I'll clip lead the tuner in and try it then swap tuners and try it again.
Then go on to an alignment.

If it has only increased to 21K, I doubt that the voltage would drop that much (75 to 8.2 volts)... is the 6J6 ok? :scratch2:

jr

Yeah, I agree. I'll swap out the 6J6 next time.

I pulled A4 1st IF transformer off the tuner to replaced the 15K resistor. It consists of the 15K resistor, a coil, and 2 mica caps at 10pf and 130pf.

Here is what it looks like:

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9066a.jpg

I was expecting some "real" mica caps. Now I'm concerned that those caps could develop silver mica disease. I'm having some real trouble getting a cap reading on each of those with my cap checker. I could cut them in half and install real mica caps.

What do you think?

Is the 10 pf leaky to ground? that could pull down the plate supply to the 6J6. Otherwise, I think that I would leave them alone, and try to figure out the reason the 6J6 plate voltage is so low first.

jr

With the 6J6 removed, check the voltage at pin 2 (plate), and see if it still lugs down.

Dittos to jr_tech on leaving the caps alone unless one is leaky/shorted. Their values are for bandpass-shaping so are fairly critical.