Still have to replace the one pot and coil. Both are responsible for the right lower section that is still quite a bit off. Watching a B&W image is painful as it's not just a little blue or red on an edge in the image. It's a large blue, magenta and yellow edge on almost everything in the lower right. It immediately pulls your eye to it and is quite distracting.

While I know perfect isn't possible, those lines should be closer together. I should have the replacements here and installed by next Monday (hopefully).

not that far off.you can tweak some more and maybe move purity rings very slightly to pull it a little closer.the blue horizontal could move a little more north.i know how this is.you want it perfect.tweak it some more just in those areas but it looks much better than it did and is close enough to enjoy.great progress.set looks good.now some screen shots,please?

This set only has the two purity rings and am not sure how they can help with convergence. It took me a manual degauss, movement of the rings and yoke to get purity done. Movement of those rings is sure to mess up my purity.

Like I said, I'll wait until the new coil and pot arrive. Until then I'm going to let the convergence be and enjoy what I have for the moment.

when you were checking those pots remember some of them may not test right in circuit. You would have to look at the schematic to see if they are isolated.

sometimes you have to comprimise the dynamic convergence, get one side perfect and the other is off a lot, in that case you shoot for the same defect on both sides. How much is normal and how much is a defect in a part can be hard to say. Just remember the idea behind dynamic convergence is to get the lines straight if thats done then it should be pretty close when the static is right on.

there was a post in the early color where a member (6GH8 cowboy IIRC) was having some convergence issues and it was bad caps. If I was have problems I would break out the scope and see if I could see the needed waveforms going to the coils. if they are there then it clear the parts as an issue so just focus on correct setup. Make sure you have all the neck parts in the correct position.

I followed your suggestion and touched up the static as I was doing the dynamic. It helped a little, but most of the improvement came from a second cleaning of the pots. Still, to get the better sides, I had to sacrifice the lower horizontal convergence and especially the lower right corner.

The one pot that tested oddly also had a click that sounded like a wire might have come unwound or something and was clicking as the wiper pushed it over. You could even feel it in your fingers. The coil is a given as it's seized. I'm pretty certain you can't lube the core of them. They seem pretty porous and I'm sure it would ruin the core.

smoothly working pots is a def plus. the zenith coils (if they are the plastic ones) can be a real PITA as the plastic crystalizes.

Yeah, I noticed the pots and coils run around 100 degrees and that has to take it's toll on the plastic coils.

Hope you folks don't mind, but I'm going to sticky this thread. I've almost given up on vintage color sets because I can't get convergence right, and this is a great reference for anyone working on this :)

Okay, I should have the 10x probe for the scope tomorrow. Here's a questions about testing the convergence board. I see in the Sams that each of the test points corresponds to a lead in the convergence socket. It would be much easier to test the leads if the socket were disconnected. That way I could touch the probe directly to each pin in the socket. That's where my question comes in. Is it okay to run the set with the convergence board disconnected. I know the convergence will be way off and there will be no power to the convergence magnets. Other than that, would I cause any damage to anything?

Thanks!

If it was a tube set I would think the worst thing would be a somewhat reduced vert scan, but since its a solid state set I would advise against it. Nothing worse that making matters worse while trying to make them better.

I suggest you figure a way to make contact solid, with the set off turn on note pattern then shut down for removal of test probs. Beside unless the sams says to disconnect then it would be assumed the reading were taken with the plug attached.

Well I guess I can flip her on her side and remove the bottom cover. All of the test points are on the bottom side of the plug at the connector (after wave shapers, etc.). I'm sure they want that side for testing as they could have put the points on the schematic for the convergence board itself, but they didn't. Don't know if that because of less clutter at the plug end over the mess up on the convergence board.

I tried to slip the probe tip between the wire and plastic connector wall on the top side, but it's too tight. Maybe there will be more room on the bottom side of the connector. If not, then I'll follow the wires back to where they attach to the terminal strip.

on my stuff I can generally get to the test points at the convergence board, you put it in the service position to get to the back off it.

...

Some points have too many leads from capacitors and resistors crisscrossing . It's a short waiting to happen.

I guess I could map out the terminal pins and attach the probe on those points. Those are on the front side of the board and less chance of shorting something out.

What about using the paper magnet strips they used on precision inline tubes to touch up the dynamic after the fact?