Philco Seventeener II
 

Guys,
I just acquired a Philco Seventeener II TV. It is in very nice shape. No dents and pretty well taken care of.

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Here is a shot of the insides. It is very clean but a little dusty. Looks like everything is in nice shape. A few tubes have been replaced other than that all the rest look like Philco originals.

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Here's how the CRT checked on my BK 467:

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Wahoo! It should give a very nice picture. The life tested very good with the needle going down just a little less than 1 to just over 1.4.

This just might be my next restoration. It'll be a nice change of pace.

That appears to be a very early Seventeener! I remember the ones using a form of Predicta chassis. Very nice set indeed!

Philco used those perma-circuit boards seen in Predictas in many model from around 57-61 including this Seventeener.

Neat set. It is the first portable TV I've seen with a 90's McDonald's color scheme.

Just looking at it makes me wanna eat a Big Mac! :D

Just like a Predicta but easier to move around!

A McSeventeener if ya will...... Hold the pickles... :D

SR

While the "paint dries" on my 621TS I thought I'd restore this TV. It'll be a nice change of pace.

Over all it is in nice shape. The chassis is dirty put "clean". No rust. The yoke cover is deteriorated along with the plastic holder for the focus rings. Everything else looks very good.

I replaced the sand resistor with a 50 ohm 50 watt chassis mount resistor for now. I powered it up using my Variac and Iso transformer. No go. I did a little troubleshooting and found that the fusistor was open. I inserted a 5 ohm 15W resistor and powered it up again. I got a raster and a picture. The picture was unstable. I also got some hash noise but no audio.

I'll put together an order and get started with the recapping etc.

Any words of wisdom and helpful hints would be appreciated.

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I'm working on one also... likely had not been turned on since my parents moved out of the farm house in the mid 60s. Fuse resistor was open, so I stuck an 8 ohm resistor in there (was the orig 7.5 or 5.6?).... got a 5 inch high pix, somewhat unstable.

On the bench, I "j hooked" all the caps on the main board, cleaned all the tube pins and got a decent pix about 90% of full height. Watched it for a while, until the heaters went out. Heaters ohmed ok... hmmm there must be a series resistor somewhere.... spotted it and more caps on the back side of the chassis.

How did you get your chassis out? Did you pull with the CRT frame/CRT attached, or leave the CRT in the cabinet?

Mine is the common alligator skin style cabinet... fun set anyway.

jr

This was a 1958 model and the original Seventeener probably had a 70 degree CRT, making for a deeper cabinet. I have two of these and a Seventeener III from 1960, with a 110 degree deflection CRT.

I have two of these now: one with the white alligator skin and another that is off-white. Both need some caps and as always, some troubleshooting afterward to fix what originally was wrong.

I found a Kodak yellow model at a local antique store for $25 and in as fine shape as your salmon colored one. I recapped it and it made a nice bright picture but I could not get the horizontal sync stable. I sold it at a swap meet for $40.

Here is one that was a popular model but without the rabbit ears handle https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/clt/6109362732.html

The 17BWP4 CRT used in the Seventeener II is a 110 degree jug... I think Philco shortened the gun (almost 2 inches) to make the 17DAP4 for the later shallower models ( and Predicta?).

jr

The fusister is 5.6 ohms. I think I remember seeing where you can use a resistor and a fuse. Can anybody shed some light on this?
Thanks.

I have some OEM 4.7 ohm fusistors, if that gets you close.

That set looks like very low hours, nice.

I'm looking over the parts and I see it has 2 diodes for rectifiers M1 & M2. Can I use some 1N4007 or 1N5408 diodes instead?

Also M3 is listed as a selenium rectifier and it has 3 legs and is encapsulated. Should I replace that too?