My B&K dyna-jet 606 has served me well on everything octal and newer.

Already got a set of spares. I could use a tester for some other projects anyway, so it wouldn’t be wasted money. I’m starting to think maybe I bit off more than I can chew, and should have started with black and white tv first. I’m learning that color has a lot more going on.

I was under the impression that the set was working.
What about the other set you mentioned as having for parts. Does it work?

Sorry for the confusion-yes, the restored set is working like brand new and has the upgraded polarized cord to avoid a hot chassis. I just like to have spares of everything, hence my search for parts. I’d like to start cutting my teeth on the donor set to learn what I’m doing.

Every PortaColor ever made came from the factory with a polarized power cord from the first one.
It seems that every transformerless GE set, B/W and color was equipped that way. Also, most other US makes from the early 60's did as well. Probably easier to get U/L approval. :thmbsp:

Not Zenith though, or Admiral.

Well, there is no "easier" - you either get it or not. In the 60s or early 70s, UL increased the required temperature rating of all internal wiring. I remember Motorola replacing all their wire stock with the new stuff, which had to be stamped all along its length with the new temp rating number.

Didn’t know that. Mine came with a non polarized plug which proved defective later, so the seller replaced it on his dime. It didn’t look new, and it didn’t look like a blade was ground down. Old aftermarket replacement maybe? UL hadn’t even crossed my mind.

Is the purpose of the polarized cord solely for safety, or are there any other reasons as well?

My set's plug was replaced at one point, and the replacement plug is non-polarized. Is there any concern/risk of damage to the set if it's operated with the polarity flipped? I wouldn't think so, but just wanted to ask.

The interlock on the back of the set it's self is polarized. The plug on the cord should be to if original or correct replacement.
The main advantage of a polarized cord is that the building neutral ( which is grounded) can be always wired to chassis (assuming the electrician that wired your building wired the outlet polarity correctly) making the set safer.
Since the 50's the UL required hot chassis sets to not have any exposed metal cabinet hardware with connection to the chassis so the polarized cord is redundant.
The set does not care about polarity given to it.

I had a number of customers in the early 60s who had cheap record players that their kids used in the basement, often with bare concrete floors. While they only got a tickle and not a full shock, I nevertheless installed polarized plugs on these record players. No more tickle.

Hey, I remember using a cheap record player in the basement, and getting a shock! Cheap thing with a Garrard changer, and two 50EH5 tubes.

The GE sets came with a male connector on the chassis that had a smaller and larger pin. I've seen where a non-polarized cord was forced on the connector. Most of the time it didn't make that good of a contact.
My earlier PortaColor didn't come with the proper cord. Driving down the street, I saw a small B/W GE solid state portable next to the trash. I wasn't going to stop, but I saw it had the perfect power cord for my PortaColor that was in perfect condition. Not too many later model sets came through with interlocking power cords. :scratch2:

Yes. So the customer cuts the prongs to fit...........
All kidding aside we changed all modified cords as a CYA step. They
are redundant as everything is plastic. No effect on operating the TV.
BTW some chassii are hot either way......

As for doing a B&W first just get your set to be as good a B&W first
then worry about color.
Series string sets to find open filament do this.
Meter on AC, ground one lead. Go along pin 1 & 12 til you find one
with no AC on one pin.
BTW you will measure 120VAC all along the string. That will not match
the data. Its because with the open there is no current so no voltage
drop along the string.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

I've done it both ways. Many times you can't get at the entire bottom of the chassis or PC board. The PortaColors are a classic example. I usually go for the higher voltage voltage tubes in the string, but that isn't always true.
BTW, those PortaColors sure are nasty to totally disassemble to replace the CRT.