Your probably going to have get at least 25 ft.
Are you sure you want solid? Stranded can be used more places, like where some movement is expected.

I'm not sure about anything, I'm literally an absolute beginner. I'm just following the instructions below and trying to get my set working again after over 2 years.

Does this look remotely correct?

https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...oth-cover-600v

Luckily I have been reading here and studying a lot. I am glad I figured out about Kester solder before I used the lead-free stuff I bought from Harbor Freight.

Capacitors arrived today from Mouser, once I prepare the new can I will try to power up.

Oh, I see what you are doing now.
I was thinking you wanted it for chassis wiring.
For the capacitor re-stuff I would use bare solid wire, if the leads on the caps aren't long enough. Then, where needed, use heat shrink tubing for insulation.
To get the bare solid you could just remove the insulation from any solid wire. Use could also buy bare wire, often called buss wire. Cloth covered wire wasn't used much in a set as late as yours. Plastic covered wire is cheaper also.
Solid wire is OK for going point to point on the chassis, like from one tube socket to another or a terminal strip. Stranded should be used for thing like CRT sockets, separate speakers and separate tuners. Stranded would be OK for point to point also, that makes it more versatile. Solid is slightly cheaper and is easier to get into a terminal hole so the manufacturer used it for point to point.

I've bought wire from All Electronics. Modern wire usually doesn't have to be rated for 600V like tube electronics often does.
https://www.allelectronics.com/categ...e/cable/1.html

Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I understand what I need now. That's exactly what I was hoping to read. Now I just need to order it and then get to work on the rebuild. Can't wait. Thanks again.

I finally got around to tackling this project. I simply cut out all the old electrolytics and soldered in the new ones. My beginner soldering job was kind of sloppy but apparently good enough for the electricity to pass through. I didn't even bother to rebuild the can. I was originally under the impression I would be cutting out ALL the capacitors which is why I found it so daunting. I was under the idea that film capacitors should be replaced. Set has been on for about 2 hours, no problems. During the first 20 minutes picture was occasionally jumpy. I guess it either wasn't warmed up or the settings weren't adjusted properly. This is a 1971 Zenith. Speaker is starting to get tinny, don't know where to go for that problem.

Looking good!

Thanks so much!

I have about 5 consoles waiting to get started on. Would the electrolytic replacement procedure be the same on those or should I get more practice with table tops before moving on to the consoles? I've got two 13" Zeniths I can do next as well.

At the shop we used the wire from a junked Zenith ! Most of it was
braided & tinned, rubber coated followed by color coded cloth. They
WAY over did it ! No one else used has high a quality hook up wire
that I remember. Most used solid wire & it easily broke off over the
years from heat or getting nicked by dykes.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

If the bias voltages are good in the audio section, check different fine-tuning settings to see if any improve sound...If none are better tune for best pic then adjust the Buzz control for best sound.

The main difference between console and portable Zeniths is that the consoles have bigger chassis with more parts and room to work.

No lets start a food fight:banana:
On most sets from the mid 60's on I would not recap. Best thing to do
is do only what you need to do to get a raster & evaluate the CRT.
After that there are certain caps that should go. Can caps are often
bad. Most will run hot or be leaking mung out the bottom if bad.
When you get to early solid state sets cans almost never failed.
Example is Zenith CC2 sets. I probably fixed an easy 1000+ of them
and only changed 2 or 3 cans all causing white hum bars due to bad
filtering on the 24 V supply.
Best bet is as you start on your pile post the brand, model & chassis
numbers along with a nudie of the chassis. That way you can be forewarned
of any special care needed when you restart it for the 1st time.
Changing cans in consoles is no different. With Zenith sets from abt
1975 on the chassii were almost the same from 13" - 25". If your 13"
sets are solid states they have a console chassis stuffed into a small
box but still serviceable !

Enuf fer now
73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

OK cool I will definitely check that out. I wasn't sure if the speakers just didn't need to be reconed.

Thanks for this valuable info. I am going to enjoy the fruits of my labor on this set and then take stock of where I stand for the next projects.

Forget the 13 inchers. Opened it up - zero room to work. These things were meant to be thrown away long before any electrolytics would have dried out and need to be replaced. Will move on to consoles.

Quick question:

I have a mid 60's Zenith rectangular b/w console with incredibly strong CRT. Did what Zeno said, turned on just to get an idea before I start. Picture is twisted. I guess this is a yoke thing.

Does anyone have a link to the procedure for getting the picture to display straight?

Display crosshatch on screen loosen yoke bracket rotate yoke while looking at screen for straightness tighten bracket when straight.... easy peasy lemon squeezy.

10-13" tube Zeniths are VERY SERVICEABLE you just need to figure out how to get them apart and get used to the difference in layout...compare one to a cheap GE or 5 and you'll appreciate the Zenith.