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Brunswick 5KR restoration

A friend gave me this set a while ago and I've been slowly working on between other projects.

At first, I wasn't even sure I'd bother making the attempt :scratch2:

It's a little older than any set I've worked on before, the speaker is missing, but worst of all, check out the insides :tears:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/7...aeb286f4_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7...bd0981bf_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7103/6...94022e8a_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7268/7...f6dc116c_z.jpg

Time to get out the Naval Jelly!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6...38e7aef3_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/6...d7521ca6_z.jpg

I did a little research and discovered this set is essentially identical to a Radiola 18 - one of the early AC powered sets.
The tube lineup is 80, 26x4, 27 and 71A.

The chassis with the power supply is known as the "Socket Power Unit" or SPU. Nice of them to include and option for 105 / 125 VAC primary operation. So I should be able to run it off modern line voltage levels.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7073/7...aa7df76f_z.jpg

The mounting screws for the SPU are so rusty I had to snap them off. Not so bad on the other chassis.
Now I can finally get a look underneath.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7245/6...8351fe8a_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7081/7...317b890a_z.jpg

I had to cut away a sheet of asbestos to get into the SPU :yuck:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5279/7...e7cdcd84_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7...536fc50b_z.jpg

That's actually pretty decent condition for a radio of that era. It may look bad, but it's mostly just looks.

There's a lot of dirt, but the wood is in good shape. Scrub it down and hit it with some Howard's, and you should be good to go. The rust on the chassis seems mostly superficial, and as for the wiring, a lot of it still seems reasonably intact, so you're better off than you would be if it were the '30s rubber-covered stuff. And perhaps most importantly, it doesn't look like anybody has screwed with it too much... I see a few repairs, but not the decades' worth of hack-jobs that you'd usually find.

Very nice cable lacing. Wonder if there's any pot metal issues with the tuning condenser.

Boy, that's a project. They kept it going at least through the thirties per the ST type tubes that replaced the globes along the way. That's one hulking rheostat, too; big wattage. I think the frame of that condenser is steel so should be OK; the pulley may be potmetal but it looks good from my house.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick_the_'Nole (Post 3032312)

I tried that, but due to the damp environment it was stored in, a lot of the old finish had flaked off. What was left was barely hanging on. So I ended up refinishing it as you'll see shortly.

The wiring is indeed in very good condition.

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_coot88 (Post 3032316)

Very nice cable lacing. Wonder if there's any pot metal issues with the tuning condenser.

Once I cleaned and lubed it, it starting turning freely :D.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reece (Post 3032327)

The rheostat is open, but I hear that's a common problem. I put a little back mark where the break is I think I can bridge it with a little gold plated copper foil.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7056/7...1b348ee2_z.jpg

As for the power transformer, it's good.
So are all the filter chokes and power resistors :banana:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/6...cb174633_z.jpg

All the caps are very leaky though.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6...d618ca6c_z.jpg

As for the cabinet, I cleaned it off with GoJo and tried to revive the original finish. However, in many areas it was already down to bare wood and what finish was left was faking off. Also the veneer was separating and the joints had opened up. Seems like it was stored in a damp environment for a long time.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5451/6...f31f6c83_z.jpg

So I made the decision to refinish it. Here it is after repairs, stripping, grain filling and sanding sealer.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/6...03e4ccbc_z.jpg

I went with medium walnut toner lacquer on the panels and van dyke walnut on the trim.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7137/6...7163d68d_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7107/7...02692cf2_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/6...2db5a31e_c.jpg

The only good original surface was under the lid with a very nice label. I carefully cleaned it and avoided getting any stripper or toner lacquer on it.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/6...106ab104_b.jpg

Time to tackle that rust. It's tempting to just chuck the whole chassis in an electroylsis bath, but instead I tackled a section at a time with rust stripper.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/7...126b9078_z.jpg

A wire brush and 100 grit sandpaper help.
Later I graduated to using a Dremel tool with abrasive bits.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7235/6...bb1b3e9e_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/7...a57ff470_z.jpg

I very carefully pried up the metal tabs holding the filter choke in place and removed it. It's much easier to work on now :)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/6...7360f921_z.jpg

By and by the rust is fading away.
Now that's some deep pitting!
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5118/6...0af48be7_z.jpg

What a job. You might think of auto glazing compound in a tube, spread on, dry, sand, to fill the pits before painting, once they're rustproofed. Auto parts stores.

Good call. I picked up some Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty and it's working quite well.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7137/7...c73fffed_z.jpg

I also discovered the rust comes back quick on the raw steel if I don't slap some primer on it.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7136/6...315d01b6_z.jpg

I was able to cutoff the remains of the rusty chassis screws and nuts using a Dremel tool with metal cutting discs.
Like a hot knife through butter :)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6...b7cf8718_z.jpg

Great work so far. I've seen plenty of Radiola 18s and most of them worked, so your Brunswick should be a pretty dependable set. I see yours is missing the lamp cover, a common problem. Do you have any idea what the Brunswick lamp cover looked like?

If you've never listened to a 20s set before, you'll be surprised. Sensitivity is very nice, as long as you have a nice long antenna and a good ground. About the only thing you'll not hear is any bass. But then you'll know why so many people were impressed with the massive booming bass of the console models that followed in the coming years.

Yes, it's just a basic rounded brass hood like the Radiola 17/18.
I figure I can replicate one easily by cutting up a brass ball like these: http://www.grandbrass.com/catalog.cf...wo Piece Balls

http://www.radiomuseum.org/images/ra...5kr_987766.jpg

No, I haven't heard a radio from this era in person. Just some clips on YouTube.

Does your tuning cap rotate freely? It looks like the frame is NOT pot metal.

I suspended restoration of a GE model H 51 (similar to Radiola 80) with a frozen cap due to pot metal expansion.