My first roundie!!!
 

A huge thank you to my good friend Danny for finding this TV for me. It's a 1963 (plus or minus one) Admiral combo set. It was the lowest priced combo unit for the year. I don't know when I'll be picking it up, Danny just picked it up yesterday at an estate sale, and there is a lot that has to be done before it can be put into service. I'll post more information as I recieve it. In order to accommodate this TV, I will be forced to rearrange my room and get rid of my desk. My Zenith Chromacolor will take the desk's place.

is there a chassis?

Very nice buddy :)

Joemama, yes, it was taken out for cleaning.

RCA clone or real admiral chassis?

Danny told me last night, but I forgot. I'm pretty sure it's real Admiral chassis.

Dont worry about running out of room. You can always put a mattress on top of it for sleeping:D Nice looking set.

Nice!!!! :D

Congratulations! Roundies are getting kind of scarce. Just hope that the CRT and flyback is good. I don't know if it's an RCA clone or not, but somehow I think it very well might be. Please post pictures of the chassis. That way we will know. Good looking blond cabinet as well. Probably uses a 21FJP22 CRT. If so, hope there isn't any cataract.

Did somebody say cataract? It's so bad, I don't think I'll have any issue getting the glass off.

regarding cleaning, pls don't go overboard on this, its easy to mess things up, I always say check it out as is, monitor the B+, the AC current draw, the HOT current, and the HV. Pull the horz out tube and the vert out tube and do a slow power up on a varic start in about 20vac slowly go up to about 80vac waiting about 10 min every 10v, monitor the can cap heat, watch out for any cardboard covered or chassis isolated can cap, the are used in doublers and will have B+ on the metal can.

Stop the variac if AC current goes over 3 amps, stop when if the B+ gets to 400v (less than full line voltage with no horz out tube installed).

If all that passes put the horz out and the vert out back in and go for a full power start up, again monitor the AC line current and the horz out cathode current, should be about 3.5 amps max on the line and 200-210 ma max on the horz out cathode. IF the HV comes up make sure it does not go over 25kv if so stop.

Often these old sets will be fine as is, the slow power up may make the can caps reform if they have not seen voltage in a very long time. full power with out the variac risk shorting a can cap.

The problem with cleaning is you can do damage that can be very hard to diagnose. if it works before cleaning then go ahead and clean some and test again. That way if you muck up something you will have a good Idea where to start.

It will be several months before I pick this TV up. I haven't seen the chassis at all yet.

Here is the radio amplifier chassis in the Admiral.

I told you you'd find one! That definitely is a beautiful admiral! You will have a lot of fun working on a roundie for sure. Keep us posted!:banana:

Thanks! Yeah, it was by pure happenstance that Danny found this one. It was at a sale he originally wasn't going to go to, but he decided to check it anyway since he was in the area. I already know exactly where this set will go, too. It will be a lot of work to accomodate it, but it will be worth it. This set does indeed have an Admiral built chassis. So that's really neat. I suppose I should change my signature, huh?

Hell no. Why stop at one?:D

Nice looking set. You'll soon discover that having only one isn't enough, space permitting.

I have an idea...

Perfect :thmbsp:

Here is a picture of the Admiral TV chassis.

Also do we have any information on this seemingly generic RE21FJP22?

The first generation Admiral chassis. IIRC, they made it for two years. They even made a rectangular set, with that chassis. The color circuit was an RCA design. The next models were cheapened and used the 6LE8 type color circuit. They even made a roundie with the newer chassis, BOTL. :sigh:
The amplifier in your set is respectable. It's amazing how good the SE 6BQ5's sound.

I believe the "RE" indicates that it is a "Rare Earth" phosphor tube.

.

I already knew that. Sorry. What I meant was do we know who made it or if it's original to the set? AEI kind of sounds like Admiral Electronics I????

Tube is a rebuild. Perhaps a rebuild from a local company?
At one time, Omaha had a handful of picture tube rebuilders, so I wonder if there was a local rebuilder in the area this set was found?

Yeah, Danny did say it was a rebuild. I just remembered that. Here is a picture of the AM/FM stereo. Interestingly enough, the "Pull on push off" treble control is just a standard turn-click switch. Oops.

Be very careful if you are going to try and remove the safety glass on the front of the CRT. I have never done it myself, as I've always have been afraid of imploding the tube. I know others have done it, successfully though. Read up on the procedures that they used and be VERY Careful. I don't think anyone on this forum wants to hear that your in the hospital getting stitched up from imploding glass. Also test the tube first to make sure it's good, and that is has good emission before even trying to remove the cataract.

I've watched every single cataract video on Youtube about five times each. I'm going to practice on a couple of junk tubes before going to the real deal. One with the water method and one with the heat.

I could be mistaken but it looks like 0479 is stamped in red over the green print on the label. Would that be a rebuild date of April 1979?

Someone could have easily replaced the pull on push off switch with a conventional twist on switch. The twist on switches were a lot easier to come by than the pull on push off switches.

Nope. Pretty sure Danny told me it was original. The radio also has a tuning eye tube - so that's pretty cool.

You'll see, when removing the chassis, if the control was replaced or not. It really doesn't make much difference. The switch, probably was replaced. The CTS push-pull switches with the black button back, didn't stand up too well, plus they could be fire hazards. I installed many KR8M switches.

Danny sent me a picture of the switch. I'm inclined to agree with him that it's original.

Yep, it looks like an original. It also looks like it is NOT a pull on, push off switch. Also, look at the wear pattern on the front of the panel around the treble control. The wear pattern would indicate a conventional turn on, turn off switch.

I've got a similar set of Admiral stereo guts....And a non combo Admiral TV with speakers on either side of the screen....Hmm :scratch2: That could be a fun project; making a combo out of it.

do not use heat (other than sunlight) to remove the lens. Its not needed for yours. Heat with a heat gun works but is much more dangerous IMHO. The main thing is not to rush it and not to hear or cool rapidly. even in sun heat I put in shade to let it cool down. NEVER use water to clean if tube is hot.

I have a 23V rectangle that has been sitting out in the weather for over a year now, Still in its foam case, with a hole dug out and a funnel in the hole right over the junction of the lens to CRT face. Grease on the pins and anode to prevent corrosion.

I was thinking of putting down a soft towel, put the CRT face down and cover with dirt to let the microbes have a go at it. Low damp area to really get the most out of it.

Congratulations, that is a very interesting round color combo indeed.

That amp chassis and tuner (9M1 chassis?) are the same as the Admiral stereo multiplex console I have except the rectifier tube in yours has a 6CA4 and mine is a 5U4 (chassis 3PA8A)
After recap and several tube replacements, the unit does sound very good for single-ended and has bass to spare. I wonder what record changer you have:scratch2: mines an Admiral that looks like a V-M from the top side.

Good news! Danny got the chassis up and running and producing a picture. Bad news! The flyback is shot. Good news! Another friend of mine (a member of this forum) has a new one that he's going to give me.

whats wrong with the fly?

Yes.. wondering what is shot on the flyback as well if that's a screen shot of said TV.
A flyback either works or doesn't.