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-   -   Mr. Coffee SKX23 Repair (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=267502)

colectorad 08-03-2016 04:10 AM

Mr. Coffee SKX23 Repair
 
After 5 short years, my uncle's coffee maker activated its' "planned obsolescence" feature by venting a 220uF 35V capacitor (C2), resulting in the burning open of a neighboring resistor (R3):

http://i.imgur.com/9RfZatim.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/t02Z2aom.jpg

Unfortunately, there's no schematic available for the "CG7-LCD-DRV" power board that this and various other coffee makers use. Does anyone have a comparable working unit to confirm the resistor value?

dieseljeep 08-03-2016 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colectorad (Post 3167726)
After 5 short years, my uncle's coffee maker activated its' "planned obsolescence" feature by venting a 220uF 35V capacitor (C2), resulting in the burning open of a neighboring resistor (R3):

http://i.imgur.com/9RfZatim.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/t02Z2aom.jpg

Unfortunately, there's no schematic available for the "CG7-LCD-DRV" power board that this and various other coffee makers use. Does anyone have a comparable working unit to confirm the resistor value?

Most of the time, you can't even get those things repaired. If they do, they generally just replace the defective part.
I thought, I have a Mr. Coffee with the timer board, but it turns out to be a Black & Decker Smart Brew. I'm going to take it apart and see if the board is the same and get back to you. :thmbsp:

madlabs 08-03-2016 10:50 AM

Looks like a brown, brown, brown to me! ;-)

Does the resistor measure open? If not, what is the reading?

Can you follow out the schematic? Maybe we can do some guess work, get within a range. Then maybe try a pot and see if it works OK.

I've had two timers blow on coffee pots, so I made a timer and got a dumb coffee pot. Of course, the planned obsolescence feature was smarter than me and the dang power switch gave it up. No defeating the planned obsolescence feature! I bypassed the switch and have to use the timer I made to turn it off.

Ed in Tx 08-03-2016 12:05 PM

This is why I won't buy a coffee maker with a timer in it.

I have a Cuisinart no timer model they quit making over 10 years ago, and a couple more makers for backup - Hamilton Beach 49316 no timer units Fry's runs on sale sometimes for $10 or so. They all use the #4 cone type filter I much prefer.

dieseljeep 08-03-2016 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseljeep (Post 3167737)
Most of the time, you can't even get those things repaired. If they do, they generally just replace the defective part.
I thought, I have a Mr. Coffee with the timer board, but it turns out to be a Black & Decker Smart Brew. I'm going to take it apart and see if the board is the same and get back to you. :thmbsp:

I took apart the one, I was referring to. It turns out to be totally different. This one even has a transformer power supply. This one has a transformer, a separate power supply and relay board and control board with buttons for the setting functions and LED display.
Probably the best thing is to hit the thrifts for a simular unit. A lot of times, they get donated when the caraffe gets broken. :scratch2:

colectorad 08-08-2016 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madlabs (Post 3167740)
Does the resistor measure open? If not, what is the reading?

Yes. "Burn[ed] open".

Quote:

Originally Posted by madlabs (Post 3167740)
Can you follow out the schematic? Maybe we can do some guess work, get within a range. Then maybe try a pot and see if it works OK.

Again, "there's no schematic". The trouble isn't getting it to work, it's getting it to keep working without a domino effect failure from using the wrong resistance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseljeep (Post 3167762)
Probably the best thing is to hit the thrifts for a simular unit. A lot of times, they get donated when the caraffe gets broken. :scratch2:

Unfortunately, it works the exact opposite around here: there's a shelf full of carafes where coffee makers would normally be. In any case, buying another coffee maker would defeat the point of fixing this one.

dieseljeep 08-08-2016 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colectorad (Post 3168028)
Yes. "Burn[ed] open".



Again, "there's no schematic". The trouble isn't getting it to work, it's getting it to keep working without a domino effect failure from using the wrong resistance.



Unfortunately, it works the exact opposite around here: there's a shelf full of carafes where coffee makers would normally be. In any case, buying another coffee maker would defeat the point of fixing this one.

I was thinking about taking apart the good one and finding the resistor value.
The one thrift, I generally go to, has a shelf of carafes, as well.
From year to year, they seem to change the dimensions of the carafes, so many times they don't seem to fit right. Even with the same make. :sigh:

Username1 08-08-2016 02:26 PM

measure the dam thing center to both ends, one way there should be a reading,
then double it. Even if you have to cut it in half with a dremel & cutting wheel.

My Mr. Coffee died of hardening of it's single artery. I got now the wife's older
procter-silex, no timers on either one, I herd about them and fires back in the
80's so I'm chicken of them forever now....

I run vinegar through them with each use now to keep calcium from building up.
The old one leaked and the calcium build up made it take 40 minutes to make
a single pot of coffee...... Built up over time so it was not noticeable

But now at about 4 minutes to make a pot, wow how did I not notice it
before.....

""" After 5 short years, my uncle's coffee maker activated its' "planned
obsolescence" feature ....... """ Priceless ! !

Get a schematic from http://oemplannedobsolescencedevices...ers/index.html

.

.

colectorad 08-13-2016 04:59 AM

^That did the trick: it's a 1.2K Ohm resistor!

I've installed the closest I have, a 1.5K (2W), and the unit is up and running. After several passes there have been no issues.

Thanks for the contributions, everyone!

dieseljeep 08-13-2016 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colectorad (Post 3168335)
^That did the trick: it's a 1.2K Ohm resistor!

I've installed the closest I have, a 1.5K (2W), and the unit is up and running. After several passes there have been no issues.

Thanks for the contributions, everyone!

I never had any luck with checking carbon film resistors that way, but most of them were smaller wattages. Carbon and wirewound, yes!
Good work, a job well done! :thmbsp:

dieseljeep 08-13-2016 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Username1 (Post 3168043)
measure the dam thing center to both ends, one way there should be a reading,
then double it. Even if you have to cut it in half with a dremel & cutting wheel.

My Mr. Coffee died of hardening of it's single artery. I got now the wife's older
procter-silex, no timers on either one, I herd about them and fires back in the
80's so I'm chicken of them forever now....

I run vinegar through them with each use now to keep calcium from building up.
The old one leaked and the calcium build up made it take 40 minutes to make
a single pot of coffee...... Built up over time so it was not noticeable

But now at about 4 minutes to make a pot, wow how did I not notice it
before.....

""" After 5 short years, my uncle's coffee maker activated its' "planned
obsolescence" feature ....... """ Priceless ! !

Get a schematic from http://oemplannedobsolescencedevices...ers/index.html

.

.

I drink at least four cups and at times, seven cups a day. I have a large mug and keep refilling it. I have a commercial grade Mr. Coffee, four cup with auto shutoff and even a grounding line cord, in like new condition. There was a large amount of them donated to the thrift, when the local Motor Inn, must've switched to Keurigs.
The things, literally flew off the shelf for $2.99 each, I bought two. :thmbsp:
My home has extremely hard water, furnished by a community well. I run my coffee water through a Brita pitcher to take out most of the hardness.


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