Well, it looks like the "E" board on this set is cracked pretty good and someone did a repair job on it before to bridge the cracks. All fuses and cord test ok. Completely dead, no click of the relay, nada.

Tomorrow I'm going to probe around the logic control to see if it's getting it's 12v feed. What sucks is the crack in the "E" board goes right accross the horiz drive transformer so I'm thinking that there might be dirty connections that could have taken out the HOT. But the thing that gets me is all the fuses check ok.

That's a very rubust chassis design, so I hope you might be OK. Very well-fused. PM me with current address, or maybe we can meet up if you're in the area, and the copy is yours...

Just a long shot, but one of my KV-3000s had a weird problem when I got it. Totally dead, and it was a wire yanked out of the power transformer. The wire was too short, and when the chassis panels were hinged closed, it pulled the wire. I lengthened the wire, and fixed the problem. It's been 20+ years, so I don't remember the details other than that.

Charles

Interesting, Charles. I doubt if the 3Ks were a large production, "Volume" type set, & as such if their peculiar "bugs" were all that well known by the factory...My R-389 was a low production radio-Maybe 750 made 1954-55- and it kinda shows subtle signs that it was, at best, MAYBE an "advanced prototype" set.

My understanding is that there were only 1000 of them built? Am I correct?

Well I got power now! Im so lame, I didn't know that there was a master power switch hidden way below the cabinet (I should of known this before, most 80's Sonys had em). Anyway I pulled the K board due to it's 7 layers of filth and cleaned it and saw "K 13" for power switch, I immediatly started looking around the front of the console for the master and found it. Well put it back together and powered her up. Got sound, and doors tork. No video, I realized I dont hear the HV coming up. I have heater voltage. I found the HOT is ice cold after a minute of power up. CONV transistor gets luke warm. I checked solder connections at the HO transformer. At least the doors work :)

:worthless:

You are right.... Sorry, daughter hid the camera.


http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01680.jpg

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01679.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01682.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01681.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01683.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01686.jpg

Don't be embarrassed... I forgot about that switch too, until you said it, and I'm a former Sony factory-authorized tech who owned 2 of those sets. I'm copying that manual for you today, and will have it out after lunch... I've never seen a bad flyback on one of those, nor on the CVM version, so hopefully it's either a cold solder joint or caps, transistors, etc. causing no HV.

Charles

Thanks a bunch Charles!

:banana::banana::banana: :banana:
WOW! That is one great looking set! I am green with envy! :yes:
And drooling as well. :drool:

jr

Thanks!

Well I started to diagnose further today, and I noticed two things. After poking around the "E" board, I found a cold solder connection between one of the cracks some dude tried to repair. This goes to the center pin of the LOT transformer. And then on the "P" board, one of the connector pins were totally disconnected from the board. This connectoer wiring carries around to the "E" board LOT CONV side. I believe this means Convergence?
Anyway resoldered bad connections and still no HV. Im still assuming the HOT transistor is shot from all the crappy solder issues.

Is there any way to do a goot test with the transistor still soldered to the board, cause I get different readings between the CONV and the HOT transistors. They use the same Hitachi 2SD725 Silicon NPN style.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01688.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01691.jpg

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Cool thanks for the tip Andy.. Actually between thr C and E it's completely open, however I have a 3 ohm reading through the B to E.

On the CONV transistor, C and E seem shorted. But my meter reads 3 ohms but beeps like a short.

Here's a cool vid I made of the doors opening and closing via remote..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1m4_teY-fNA