OK a little more on Sams crosses.

#847-1 H1-1A & H2-1A Nov 66

#894-1 H1-1A, & H2-1A added 1H-1A & 1H-2A July 67

Missed the other, must be my eyes. I probably got that too.
Both mine show a 3GK5 NOT a 3HA5 for RF amp so you may
have a newer one with different tuner assy.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Update: It's lost all horizontal now. I think I'm gonna look into getting the Sams for it, use that to try and poke around a bit. If that fails, I'll use the shotgun approach.

Ah beautiful, thanks much.

That diode is a-going bye-bye. It's doubtful that anyone will ever use this set on a daily basis again... and if they do, they can damn well wait 3 seconds for it to turn on.

Thanks Zeno. The tuner is sort of a separate thingy, so apparently the chassis stayed the same for a long while, but the tuner changed. TomJ suggested 1062-1, I'm assuming a higher set number implies a later date? Idk, it'd be nice if I had a model number. With the Sams index, I can cross those folders to about 8 model numbers, none of which give me any results on google. sadface. Do you suppose any of the 3 Sams folders would work for me? Aside from the tuner, the rest should be mostly the same, right?

The 1062-1 probably the right one. See if you can
find a free one first. If not get back to me. DO NOT
buy it from Sams. Will be a shitty PDF of photocopy.
I have high quality originals. for 1/4 the cost.

BTW these had a lot of bad yokes. Often if you pull
it off the CRT it will start to burn & prove it easily.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Didn't Admiral build this same set, with several variations, until the end of the tube era? The last one I worked on had a single control for brightness and contrast, that they referred to as a video or picture control. Seems to be around 1975 or so. The tube compliment was slightly different.
IIRC, that set had an SSKresge logo on the speaker grill. :scratch2:

Yeah, I looked. No free one is to be had. Hell, no paid one is to be had! Excepting from Sam's, so thanks for the warning, because I was considering dropping $22 on that. I have a friend who may have a Sams collection, and then the library in downtown Chicago has a collection... but it's sketchy as to whether theirs goes above 600 or so. I'm gonna be calling in and seeing if they know, and if my friend has Sams or not. He's a quote-unquote tv repairman, but he's actually a friend of a friend and I don't know him very well.

Although he pissed me off because he shortchanged me on some car repair I did for him. So in my book, he owes me a $150 favor.

But I might take you up on that offer.

Also, the yoke looks pristine, it was the cleanest part of the whole ratshit-covered set. And I've taken it off but not while it was working. But now that you mention it, don't they have capacitors inside of them? Maybe I'll crack it open and check the resistance of the coils anyhow.

A small update. I dug around in my tube box and found 4 empty boxes of the 33GY7A, and one occupied one. I also found a 23Z9, so I just plugged both of them in, but no difference was made.

Also, literally burned myself on the 23Z9.

I'll get back to this project for realzies shortly, I've been working on that radio.

I burnt myself on a 23Z9 in a GE 9". There was a shorted cap in the vertical sweep circuit. It's a low B+ set so the tube won't red-plate, but it's still running extremely hot. Find out what's wrong with the vert circuit or you'll destroy the new tube.

Heh, I took those tubes out immediately. I think what I'm gonna do is order a set of caps, and just replace those cheesy clear plastic ones, and maybe any others that look sketchy. Like the cardboard one.

(PS - Check your PM's)

Capacitor question #1:

The polystyrene(?) capacitors - those clear plastic ones - are marked in 4 digits plus a letter. ie - 6800K. I assume that's 6800pf with K tolerance. But then just one of them is 560K, 3 digits. So is that 560pf or 56pf?

Capacitor question #2:

The giant cardboard can capacitor's ratings are toleranced as follows:
200-250uf
120-200uf
100-150uf

With math, I propose the following:
225uf +/- 11%
160uf +/- 25%
125uf +/- 20%

Which, obviously, are very odd numbers. So should I use the minimums, maximums, or go with the oddball middle values I calculated?

I'm pretty sure that would be 560pF. Those are very stable capacitors and probably don't need to be replaced.

I'd go with modern standard values of:

220uF
150uF
120uF

Dude thanks. Someone else though, mentioned that when the plastic cracks on those polystyrene ones, that they start to go out of whack. And they're all cracked. Idk, besides the can and the polystyrene ones, the rest of the caps are brown dips and ceramic. Original, obivously, but I'm hoping one of those little ones and/or the can will take care of it.