Restoring an RCA CTC-10 "Wynnwood".
 

Scanning Craigslist this morning during break and spotted this RCA listed at $70.
I decided to take off early and go look at it before a Fishtanker found it.

Sadly the CRT has been necked, it was a 21CYP too I think based on the Orange stripe on the neck, I have a rebuilt Channel Master FJP I can put in it though.

It's complete except of one small knob, the CRT cup (probably broken when the CRT got necked) and a couple small pieces of brass trim on the legs.

The cabinet is a little rough but the good thing is it's black lacquer so touching it up is much easier than trying to match a particular shade of stain, also wood putty won't show through black paint.

After finding the tube necked and the cabinet being a bit rough I was considering leaving it, until I realized it was a remote set, I figured that made it worth the extra effort to restore. I also have two CTC10 chassis here for parts so getting it running won't be a problem.
I made an offer of $40 and he accepted it so now it's sitting in my van!

Here's the promo sheet from Ed Reitan's site.
http://www.novia.net/~ereitan/Galler...wood%20800.jpg

If I owned this I'd be thinking "Steve Wynnewood" every time I glanced at it. :)

"Wireless Wizard"... I love it! Well worth $70 even sans CRT.

Security sealed circuits?

Nice! and a remote set! I had a ctc-10 remote but sold it last year in a weak moment for fast $$ Would have given it to you, Sorry.
Cool looking TV.

Looks sun baked, but not as bad as my CT-100 was!


http://videokarma.org/attachment.php...4&d=1316877917

So if that 21cyp22 that had the neck broke off was to have enough of the neck left as if it were going through a rebuilding process, could that tube be used for a rebuild test if it were for now sealed, and vacuumed to prevent any further damage from the air...?

After all, there will need to be some "test tubes" getting the rebuild process down right.... right....?

I think Technicolor has a tube cut off about the same point as this one.... 2 test tubes...?

Yah, they may not work bla bla bla but you gunna try a new process on a something you can't replace......?

Trouble with necked tubes is you don't know if it was under vacuum when it happened, if it was the air rushing in can literally blow the phosphor off the face of the tube and ruin it. No way to really tell without rebuilding it either, it's a real crap shoot. In short: there are better candidates out there with bad guns still under vacuum, better to try those first.

This CRT got necked hard too, no doubt sucked in glass debris against the shadow mask.

Still a very NICE score, even with a terribly "necked" tube, really like the black lacquer cabinet style too, a plus that it's a remote set! Did you get the remote transmitter with the set? Do keep us informed of your progress on this set!

Need the knob? No promises, but I might have one.

Charles

Necked CRT or not, GREAT score! That's gonna be gorgeous all fixed up! Gotta love the remote roundies! Always worth saving IMO...

Hi Charles, I would love to get the knob for it, I want to get all the little bits and pieces so when I start to work on it I'll have everything.

Here's a picture of it, one of the four small knobs on the bottom and it's solid metal and brass colored.

Thanks!

I bet I either have that one, or I have a set of 4 matched similar. I don't know why, but RCA had many variations of those aux knobs; maybe due to different cabinet styles? About a year ago, I found a box of (mainly) RCA color knobs which I had put aside years ago, so I'll go check what I have. If you don't get a PM from me in the next day or so, please remind me :thmbsp: . I also have that remote, but it's beat-up. Not anxious to get rid of the remote, but would part with it if you don't have one at all.

Charles

Thanks Charles, I don't want to take your remote though.
There's on on eBay now for an outrageous price and there were a couple sold recently for much less so one will turn up eventually.

I love the remotes for these things (duh).

My CTC-10C set was necked when I got it in late 1974. It used the CYP22. Found a FBP22 tube in a junk carcass. I didn't have any way to test the tube, or any of the tubes in the chassis, for that matter.... I was around 18...

I was rewarded with a good color picture from this unknown CRT. The tube lived until 1984, when I bought a brand new FBP tube from an Atlanta dealer that found it in their warehouse... they thought it was a returned dud, until I opened the box.

I'm so glad I fixed that set. It has been a reliable performer with most of its original capacitors all these years.

I started taking the set apart tonight to assess it's condition, also I wouldn't be able to get it out of the Van by myself if it was together.

Chassis is pretty clean, Flyback looks good, all the plastic gears in the remote system look good.
I will probably attempt a slow start before doing anything to it, I have a weak 21" tube I can use for testing.
Seller said he was told it worked by the people he bought it from so it probably got necked after that but it looks like it's been sitting a while, there was rust on the CRT gun.

CRT was toast, neck was really short, mask looked dirty so I just tossed it, possibility of it being rebuilt was nil, even if they get the rebuilding going at the ETF there are much better candidates out there.

Eric, that was a really good find... even though you still need to find a CRT. That cabinet would be breath taking with a fresh coat of black lacquer on it! :yes:

Hi Charlie, I have a new rebuilt CRT from the 80's sitting in a closet, it's not a CYP but it'll work.
I have to figure a way to remove the safety glass that got cracked when I bumped it against a metal shelf, I'm hoping it's the type that will soak off in water, otherwise it's going to be hard since it's not delaminated at all.

Amazing what TV guys have stuck in the closets!!

I've got an FJP22 buried in the closet, too. It was put in a set in the 1980's, run for a year, and then the power transformer got hit by lightning, along with the tuner and IF section. Unfortunately, it has begun to delaminate.

I need to keep it, though.

I dug out the new CRT tonight, I had to unbolt a cabinet and swing it out of the way to get the tube out, it's been trapped in there for quite a few years.
It's a Channel Master with a date stamp of 1984 I think, can't make out the last digit too well but I think that's what it was.

Good news, it still checks like new, as it should, also the area of the safety glass that is cracked has delaminated, I could probably pull that piece off if I wanted to.
It wasn't like that last time I saw it, probably at least 5-8 years ago, also it smells like deteriorating plastic so the PVA is probably going bad.

I put it in the second bathroom, I don't use that one so it won't be in the way, it has a shallow shower only tub, about 4 inches deep, or just right to soak the tube in for a while.
I added a little Clorox to keep it from getting rank and maybe it'll help break down the PVA, I also scraped off the clear tape they used to contain the PVA to allow the water to get to it. I noticed some fine bubbles around the edge so I hope it's water seeping into the PVA.

This will work out great since it's going in a set that didn't use a bonded tube, the screen color may be a bit different though.

:drool: Heart is racing! :drool:

The chassis is alive! I did a soft start with the Variac, disconnected the cap from the HV rectifier also because I don't have the Anode wire plugged in.
It has High Voltage and, after fiddling with the dirty tuner a bit, strong sound, I'm betting it would display a picture, or at least a raster if it had a CRT hooked up. Filter caps didn't get warm.

I found the fuse had been replaced with a single strand of Solder :screwy:, wonder how many amps that would handle, 10 at least and more likely 20, it's supposed to be 0.75 Amp.

EESH! on the "fuse" but Happy for the chassis being "alive"!! Gotta love this era of RCA! The 10 is in my favorites list :) Like the CTC9, they almost ALWAYS work! Hopefully my new 9 follows suit!
I can't wait to see a picture on this beautiful set Eric!

Eric if you have the time leave that crt in the soak for a couple MONTHS, no kidding. I rushed one and had an implosion, not fun. it was the same deal the lens cracked a bit during the removal and my attempts to remove it just kept chipping more away. Then one morning going into the 9th inning is just imploded when I touched it.

If I had to do it all over again I would have left it sit for a year in the darn water if need be.

It was a rectangle, which I have done before. Maybe roundies are less implosion prone, just be sure to protect you eyes and wear protective clothing.

Seeing that crack lens brought back bad memories

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRJ0otqgmYs

The problem I had was once the lens was cracked I had a hard time getting a good edge to apply the wood wedges used to pry off the lens, it just kept cracking off into small pieces, right up to the good solid PVA, which makes it hard to dig out and have a space to work with under the lens.

What?? No penny in there??

I found a blown fuse wrapped with a piece of foil once years ago. I suspect that was done by the set owner (sounds like something my grandfather would have done).

Kinda makes you wonder why they just didn't put a fuse in there. Seems like a service man would have had some fuses. But then, it's likely the average set owner wouldn't have solder in the kitchen junk drawer. What was going on to blow that fuse? It's only going to blow if something is wrong. Was someone getting tired of changing fuses? Did they simply not have one?

I guess the possibilities are endless. :sigh:

When I got my CTC-10, with the broken CRT, someone in the past had wrapped this fuse with foil.

When I got my replacement CRT installed, I replaced the fuse with the right part. That was 1975. It's never blown again.

+1 on letting that tube soak for a good while. It seems to me that PVA used on newer/rebuilt tubes is stronger at bonding and may not allow seperation as quickly as the RCA's from the sixties does. I soaked a dud through two summer months so I could easily salvage the safety glass from it..

I plan on letting it soak as long as needed, no heat or mechanical force will be used because that's just too scary. I might poke some Toothpicks in the side to help separate it but nothing more heavy duty than that.

I'll pull it out of the tub this weekend and see if it's doing anything.

I read that Denatured Alcohol might dissolve PVA but I don't want to fill my bathtub with that, not to mention the cost. It might be possible to build a snug fitting pan or bag so it wouldn't take much liquid to bring it to the level of the glue layer, outdoors of course.

That's a shame what happened to the original CRT on that, the chassis in working condition, some careless idiot necked it, Oh well.. I wonder if it was necked during transport, someone made a fast turn and the set fell on it's back.. I noticed alot of those 1980s roundie rebuilds seem to test like new.. I have three working roundies, one with the original CRT, on a brighter, and one with a Colorama Rebuilt from the mid 1970s, and one unknown rebuilt from the early 1980s.. The one rebuilt from the early 1980s test like brand new with the Beltron and even the voltage being well below five volts all needles stay past .8.. Speaking of Beltrons they have weaker results when testing compared to a B&K 467 and a Sencore CR70.. I've tested different tubes with three different Beltron units compared to the other testers and the beltrons give approx same weaker results..

Nine bad tubes!
 

Checked the tubes in the TV chassis tonight, there were nine bad ones, most had shorts, the 6AQ5 and the 6BK4 were weak, the one 6GH8 in the set checked good! The Sweep tubes (output and damper) checked OK but not as good as they could be so I'll replace them if I have spares.
There are a few tubes in the remote chassis I haven't checked yet because it's still in the cabinet in the garage.

Whenever you test a 6BK4 tinted like that you know it's gonna' check bad. Looks like some original's there too, that's quite a service life!

That's quite a pile there. I don't think I've ever found more than four or five bad tubes in one set. Yes, that regulator is a little bit dark! :D

The 6BK4 is mostly just dirty, it is the original tube though with a 23/60 date code.

That 6EW6 has a Sylvania date code and type font on the type number!

That old 6BK4 will run forever. I've seen them almost black and they are still regulating.

6AQ5's running at 10-20% will still make sound.

I look forward to seeing a picture on this one. Mine is run about once a month, and looks decent on original caps, except for a couple of electrolytics. It will get a recap eventually.

Amen! That particular tube always seems to be bullet proof.... even in the vertical circuits.

Perhaps all that dirt on the regulator will provide some extra shielding! :D

As of seeing this post I finally know why an old TV I trash-picked in my youth had that nice little black spot in the middle of the screen.

I've been working on the cabinet, a little here, a little there.
The top was really a mess, the paint was cracked all over and there are dings and gouges.
I reflowed the Lacquer to smooth out some of the cracks then I sanded it.
The biggest issue is they didn't veneer the top since it was going to be painted anyway, this means it has a fairly coarse Plywood grain, that's what cracked the paint, the grain was poking through on the high spots. Stripping it completely would make it worse since the old paint is acting as grain filler right now.

This cabinet must have a hundred dings and gouges from careless handling, I will have to fill and smooth all of them before I paint it. A couple of the feet have some parts chipped off, I'm going to have to fill those areas and reshape them with a Dremel, at least that's the plan.
That's the best part about it being painted, none of the filler will show through.

I took off the doors and refinished one of them as a test, here's the result, I used Ace Hardware Black Lacquer paint and it is a really good match.

Nice!

Man, this is going to turn out to be awesome when you finish!