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Hagstar 09-29-2016 08:13 AM

New '60s Philco Roundie
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Well in June I saw this with a SOLD sticker at our local recycle store. At the time I wasn't much impressed but after posting on Facebook about it I decided to frequent the store two or three times a weeks the rest of the summer- like lightening was going to strike twice (we had 2 stations only part color here in the early '60s). But then what reappeared last Fri. but this same early '60s Philco roundie with amp and original turntable (I had thought it was just storage, didn't look at it closely due to the SOLD sticker in June). They had determined to put it aside and research it but decided it was rare but not too valuable. SO they suggested $50- and it's mine now.

They informed me the possible collector interest was well known to them for anything odd like this. I never ever see color sets this old in the "field" here, they are rare enough in NYC or Boston areas where stations were plentiful.

I'm told this uses transistors in the signal chain and isn't a CTC clone, and is a 1966 product? The yellow edge makes me suspect a Zenith-made CRT. Any info before I begin tearing into it (possibly mid-Oct) would be appreciated. 6813931 is what is marked as a model number as far as I can tell.

Electronic M 09-29-2016 09:55 AM

Awesome score!

Philco had loss leader roundys into the early 70's IIRC. I think that is post 1968 as the control layout looks newer than the 1968 models to me....It is real odd that it is in a combo since I thought Philco only sold them as cheap stripped models primarily in metal cabinets by then.

It definitely has a Zenith style cat...You can cut those off hot or cool with a guitar string, peel the glue, clean and reattach the glass. I have a good removal vid on my photobucket account (that I've posted a few times).

DaveWM 09-29-2016 10:03 AM

If its the late model with the SS tuner, it will make a nice pic assuming the CRT is good. Weak spot is the HV fly, runs very hot, uses some pulse feed back to regulate the HV, rather than the more traditional shunt tube. They touted it as very high power 27kv for a nice bright picture which it does have.
Not sure why but mine has the best dynamic convergence of any set I own, think others here have the same experience.

miniman82 09-29-2016 05:52 PM

Yup, same experience here. I've had many roundies, none have had better convergence than the Philco. So close, I'd call it nearly perfect. No fringing what so ever.

Hagstar 10-01-2016 03:31 PM

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Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3170857)
Awesome score!
It is real odd that it is in a combo since I thought Philco only sold them as cheap stripped models primarily in metal cabinets by then.

Here's an illuminating ad-

tom.j.fla 10-01-2016 03:43 PM

Have a combo in storage with date code 11 71 so sold as 1972 model. Has bright deep color and is a hybrid with that PITA color decoder chip. When stored was working and looked like it was just unboxed. All the best Tom.J

EdKozk2 10-01-2016 09:59 PM

Did you look insde the set to find a chassis number ? That way you can get the correct Sam's folder. There seem to be many variations of this model from June of 1964 onward. The crt may be a 21FJP22. I am curious too. Nice find.

zenithfan1 10-02-2016 04:32 AM

All this talk of perfect convergence makes me wanna get my Philco roundie going. Yours is a great looking set btw.

Electronic M 10-02-2016 12:02 PM


Originally Posted by Hagstar (Post 3171015)
Here's an illuminating ad-

Going by the control panels (same as my 1965' philco roundy) in that ad, that ad is from circa 64'-66' a time when I'd still expect roundy combos to be a common product.

The set the OP posted looks to be 1968-73 based on control panel aesthetics.

Hagstar 10-02-2016 02:45 PM

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Well I took the back off (chassis #7MT808) and tested the 21FJP22, red was low even running the filament an hour. But after the lowest level of rejuvenation it popped right up to balance with the other guns at the lower end of the green scale.

Here are some photos. At this point I take it I should remove all scanning related tubes, apply power ramping up to line voltage slowly looking for trouble, then reawaken horz then vert oscillators? What I did with my CTC4 was replace every 'lytic and paper cap before applying power but this is obviously mostly "brown dip" caps. Thanks for the feedback so far!

DaveWM 10-02-2016 04:47 PM

no need to recap, just give it a slow start with the horz out and vert out tubes pulled, power up slow, monitor the B+, stop the variac when it gets to about 375v, check cans for heat, if all good plug in the sweep tubes, monitor the horz out cathode for current and do a full power startup. Don't be surprised if the cathode current is somewhat high, like 230ma IIRC. get it as low as you can but be warned the fly runs hot. upping the contrast makes it run hotter IIRC. Lowering the HV will lower the cathode current, but may end up with not enough horz sweep. Its a bit of an odd ball with the feedback HV regulation.

here is a video

Hagstar 10-02-2016 05:44 PM

I take it I should pull the chassis to measure the horz output current? Or is there some sort of fitting, there appears to be such to the right of HO tube? Normally I'd make a test adapter but I have no Compactron stuff....SAMS not here yet.

John H.

EdKozk2 10-02-2016 11:39 PM

I found your TV chassis # 17MT80B in Sams 885-2. The set is dated May of 1967. The Sams' shows 220ma on the cathode of the 6KD6 horizontal output tube. The HO cathode is tied directly to ground. Grid #3 is also connected to the cathode. I didn't see any test point .

DaveWM 10-03-2016 07:49 AM

you can get test sockets for checking HO current, plug the socket in, the tube into the socked. It has test leads coming out that you hook the meter up to.

On mine I installed a small fuse holder with a 275ma fuse. Not sure I would bother doing that again, just something to make it easier to test really.

BTW there are LOTS of ideas on how to deal with 1st start ups. Some go with just plug in and watch for smoke to the more detailed monitoring of everything with very slow startup. Not saying there is a correct way, just different. IIRC the issues I ran into was some cracked solder joint on the color pcb where some high power resistors were. They stand off from the board quite a bit I presume to keep from cooking the pcb, you could tell they were a bit loose just by touching them. There were also some loose feeling sockets on some of the compactron tubes in that same area.

Hagstar 10-03-2016 08:50 AM

I may go with a simplified start up procedure as I strongly suspect the recycle store already powered this up, can't even be sure they used a variac.

Thanks again, will report.

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