Sony kv-1913 SCC-265B-A trinitron manual or help
 

Hey all, today is not my day. All I wanted to do was adjust my favorite Tv but I had an accident with it. The coax hookup to my signal generator fell into the chassis and bridged between the chassis and the AC line. Or at least that's what I think. I am really not sure..

Anyways I found a burnt resistor but I can not read the value. With a meter it reads arounf 200ohms so I am guessing there is some other issue. This is my favorite and best tv so I really would like to get it going. So far there has been luck with finding a manual.


Also no luck setting the convergence really, but now this set is a bit too dead to do that with.

So far I have found the main 2SD870 transistor is shot, along with the Mn8303. Both of these are on the heatsink. I also found the 2sA893 transistor in the power supply is bad as well.

Since I have never done this repair before I am really hoping all goes well. I feel more obligated to fix this set since I am the one who ruined it in the first place.

I must say that the build quality is disappointing for this set. I expected a whole lot more inside, but then again I am used to working on Zenith.

All needed parts have been ordered (with a little extra just in case). So far the price has gone over $40 which is a bit much for a poor college student but hopefully this set will live..

Check the rectifiers also. If its a bridge change all 4 even if only
one is bad. 3A 1000V good to use.
Get the "R" number for the resistor. I should have the manual
& will look it up later.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Thanks for your reply. All of the diodes in the bridge are okay. I tested them with a hikok component tester (just a new toy from the dump), and pulled them out and tested them with a meter.

The burnt out resistor is R605 in the power supply. Both transistors near it are also toast. The larger one is Q602, and the larger is Q601. Both are ordered but they’re coming from China, and an a buddy of mine has the TO3 type transistors that blew. I believe in was a 2sd870.

R605 is 150 ohm 1/8 watt
2SD870 is the horz out / damper
Q602 MN8303 reg out
Q601 2SA893 reg driver
F602 is probably also blown

This is a GOOD candidate to start up slow. Use the directions I gave you
for the Samsung but start it at zero volts turning it up slowly & watching
the ampmeter. All after you changed things of course.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Still waiting on parts from China for this, so it may be a very long time until I get this thing going. I just cleaned out a Tv shop and was hoping to find the parts for this set, but no luck.

Is there anything else in the circuit I should double check again?

Got a couple of the parts in and now have a question. The NTE36 transistor that is on the heatsink (labeled Reg out) does not have a mica insulator between it and the heatsink. Did it ever have one? I don't remember one and I don't know how to tell if it should have one or not. It not having one would be an explanation of how the original accidental short blew those parts (bridging the AC line with the chassis, sending the AC through the REG out).

So is it missing an insulator or is it supposed to not have one?

Collector goes to ground anyways so no mica needed. Wouldnt
hurt to put some owl shit on it.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Thanks a million! I already put some of that good ole stuff on it but had to stop because of this last bit of confusion.

Hopefully the other parts will be here tomorrow so we can see what the TV can or can't do.

:lmao: Took me a couple of moments to realize you were talking about thermal paste.
If you need to put some on a Zenith you should call it Sumuf shit...Some of the Zenith kits came with blue heatsink compound.

That's why all my receptacles are GFCI.
It could easily prevent a mishap like this. When I first started using them, I bumped a chassis with a grounded cable TV coax and it tripped instantly, no damage to the set. It happened a few times.
Also, none of my test equipment is grounded. I use those 3 to 2 prong adaptors on the equipment that has grounding plugs.
AC/DC sets, an isolation transformer. :thmbsp:

Bad news, but the set is still dead. I did the startup procudure the same as that Samsung set I have in another thread. The tuner lights up but there are no other signs of life. Any ideas on where to go now? I am going to probably just take the whole power supply apart again.

Here is a list of checked parts. I'm going to wrap this up for tonight.

R608, 610, 606, 603, 607, 241, 239, 609, 602, 525A

D204, 203, 510

Q203, Q502

EDIT: Installed the board back into the unit and now it powers up and gives raster. The raster is crazy looking though. Basically the static is extremely colorful so maybe the convergence is way off.

The TV draws way under 1 amp. Is this good?

It was said in the olden days the clear stuff was best for clean-up but worst
for conduction.
White was next & it had another name I will let you guess:scratch2:
Pink next.
Blue was said to be best for heat conduction.
Once at a NAP seminar IIRC the C3 POS chassis was blowing vert IC's.
After mods they gave us a Zenith part # for a transistor & told us
"throw away the transistor & use the blue compound on the IC."
When asked why NAP didnt include it we were met with silence......
You will find blue or pink compound in many Zenith 800-### kits.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Turn color all the way down. If still there adjust the H-Stat
control. Its on a block with the anode lead.


73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !