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I cleaned up my good picture tube I got from the ETF in October. It had some glue from duct tape in several places on the metal cone. I cleaned off the gunk, removed the labels (there were 2 of them. 1 was a Caution label and the other was also a Caution label with the CRT serial number on it), lightly sanded and cleaned off the cone. I then masked off the glass portion to the tube. One more cleaning with acetone and then 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Black BBQ paint. When dry then 2 coats of Satin Clear Enamel. This CRT looks good!
I then recreated the labels using my CAD program. Saved them as pdf's and a trip to the copy place gave me some nice red labels on light card stock. After I trimmed them to size, I used some spray contact glue and fixed them into place. Not exact duplicates but very close. https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_8502a.jpg https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_8515a.jpg |
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I have a bakelite Admiral just like the one in the background on top of my Zenith porthole...Some of those Admirals (mine included) had one of Admiral's first LP changers. |
A very generous member of this Forum gave me a B&K 415 and a 1077B along with most of the cables. I wanted to use the 415 to align this set and after making up the missing cable and converting the mic connectors to BNC, I found out that the 415 doesn't work on the "sweep" function. So over the next week I'll dive into that to see if I can get it going. I'll make a post in the Test Equipment section when that happens.
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I could be wrong, but I believe the 415 is a 44Mc IF rig, but this TV has a 21Mc IF (as do most pre-1955 sets as well as some late 50's sets)...If I'm right you will not beable to use the 415 as is to align this set (someone did find a way to heterodyne the 415 down to 21Mc with outboard parts IIRC).
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Yup, all restored and a new cartridge installed. This Admiral is the 2 speed changer. https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_8552a.jpg |
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It looks great. But why did you decide to paint the main chassis?
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Oh, OK. But you need to realize that metal plating is that way right out of the bath. Now you've made it into a work of art, which I suppose is even more interesting for most folks to enjoy today. :thmbsp:
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The painted chassis looks great, but I've run into enough bad chassis grounds from rivets, screws, and other mounts in the past that I would never risk creating that situation on my own. But then I've never tried to restore a radio or TV to visual perfection before. Good job, Chris!
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E-Cap - Start - 2 Hours later with Can - 2 Hours later without the can C1 - 22C - 46.1C - 39.3C C2 - 22C - 63.1C - 43.9C C3 - 23C - 45.7C - 40.4C C4 - 22C - 38.0C - 32.9C C2 is located on the power supply chassis next to V11 6BF5 audio output tube. This tube glows brightly under normal operation and gets very hot. IIRC it measured @268 F. It looks like the can and sleeve actually acts as a barrier to the surrounding heat of the chassis as shown by about a 3 to 5 degree difference between the can being on or off. The exception is C2 due to being close to the 6BF5. This test wasn't very scientific but does demonstrate that enclosing them in the PVC and their cans actually proves to reduce the heat of the E-Caps. In any case, all of these E-Caps are 105C and are no where near their rated temperature. I did a life span estimate from the Nichicon website of C2 22uf 500V E-Caps at 45C, and their life span was 131,400 hours. That's about 45 years at 8 hours a day, every day! |
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