Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenithNut
Bill, the circuit breaker is physically broken, and doesnt pop in or out. Reads open on my meter.
Heres a screenshot of the dly in the schematic for my C20
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That ain't your primary! The primary is the 580 ohm between the H out tube top and the HV rect top, or the 5.5, .8 and or 6 ohm windings depending on who you ask.
That 1 ohm (might be .1 since there is a faint dot out front) winding is just a trigger pulse output winding that sends a signal to the color burst gate and possible H osc feedback...You could unhook that 1 ohm winding in any working set and the set would still work (albeit the color would probably be screwy).
Make sure the other windings are within 30% tolerance of the sam's and if they are the fly is probably fine (and you should proceed with the resto work). If that 1 ohm signal winding is not providing a pulse with everything else working you can probably wrap a few turns of magnet wire around the core to get that trigger pulse.
Most RCAs of the roundy era I've seen don't really protect the fly with a fuse or breaker...Usually, the breaker is on the B+ winding of the power transformer....A major cause of breaker failure is shorted filter caps just off the rectifier, shorted rectifiers, or once in a blue moon a horizontal issue. Most sets I see that have a bad breaker are on their 2nd or 3rd filter can.