Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
1.) Were these bare metal cans with the outer metal shell attached directly to the chassis? If yes then all chassis ground points should be valid negative terminals for the new caps. If no then I assume the originals had a cardboard sleeve and the 3-4 negative mounting ears did not connect to chassis but instead connected to an insulating wafer that is riveted to the chassis in two places...Those have a separate negative lead (or several if used as a terminal strip for the neg bus) going to their outside terminal(s)...You MUST connect the new caps' negative leads to the SAME negative bus wire as their can is on.
Some sets only chassis grounded their caps, some only used the floating negative bus, some did both, some had the negatives on different caps on different busses...It depended on how complex the power supply was. Make sure the replacements negatives are on the same negative as the originals.
2.) sometimes the outer paper/cellophane/plastic layer peels. If the winding has not shorted or shorted to the core all should be fine...Albeit less pretty. Look it over maybe ohm it out...If it is fishy you should notice.
Stress a bit, but not too much. We all goof up something, often in the power supply, at least once...Having a variac helps reduce damage risk on first power up.
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Thank you for your reply and valuable knowledge. Please see attached pictures. I green check marked the type of capacitors my set has. I am guessing by the information you provided I am in the clear. That is very reassuring.