I cleaned and deburred the cans and bases.
I then made the PVC sleeves from PVC pipe I got at the Home Depot. I true up 1 end on my disc sander using the 90 degree guide. Then I mark the trued end with an arrow. This is the end that will be glued to the base. I true that end up so the can will stick straight on the assembly.
I then mark off a 1 inch cut line and cut it off using my band saw. I then clean up both ends using my #11 hobby knife and sandpaper. This is repeated for all 5 sleeves.
The sleeves are then epoxied to the bases using 15 minute epoxy. I only apply the epoxy to the edge that will rest on the bottom in the base. In the case of C116 were the base is cut off even, I visually align the sleeve to the base.
I then made up my capacitor assemblies. I used Nichicon 105 degree caps that I get from Digikey. The caps are hot glued together and wired using 6oo volt wire. The assembly is put into position in the base and the the insulation of the wires are marked. The assembly is removed from the base and the wires are stripped at the marks.
I use hot glue to glue the caps into the bases. I usually glob on a big dollop and then insert the caps into the bases. This is allowed to set up and the the wires are soldered to the proper terminal. The ground wire is left unconnected till the cap is inserted into the chassis, then it is soldered to a twisty tab.
Here is a picture of C127. BTW, I used 47uf caps instead of the 40uf called for, a 22uf instead of the 20uf, a 82uf instead of the 80uf, and a 270uf instead of the 250uf.
Here is a picture of C116 before the caps are inserted into the base. It has 4 caps.
Another view.
The base of C116 with the wires soldered to the terminal.
Top side of C116.
