Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
You don't need to remove can caps unless you are planning to restuff them using the unroll the bottom crimp method. You can just disconnect all the positive leads from the cans and wire new caps in elsewhere. If you do want to rebuild the (pull off cardboard sleeve if present) cut can ~1" up from base, drill holes in base so wires from inside can reach terminals, install new cap bundle and cover with cardboard sleeve (or metal foil tape top back on) method is faster and poses less risk of accidentally stabbing your own hands multiple times (I've tried both methods ask me how I know).
Old capacitance standard values went 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 (and powers of 10 multiples there of)
new capacitance standard values go 1, 2.2, 3.3, 3.9, 4.7, 5.6, 6.8, 8.2, 9.1 (" ")
So if you can't find an out of production 200uF lytic go look for a 220uF...In fact look for it anyways because if you find the old 200uF it'll be MUCH more expensive. Lytics usually had more than 20% tolerance on capacitance.
Never order a cap with a lower voltage rating than the original.
Mouser and digikey have capacitance and voltage filters to make searching easier.
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Ok that is a relief, and makes things way easier knowing that. Another question though. It it OK to replace an electrolytic cap in the tv with a ceramic cap as long as it has the correct mF as mentioned and same voltage or higher. Or will the ceramic cap bother the tv? For example replacing 10uf 15V electrolytic with a new small ceramic one which is 10uf and has a voltage rating of 50v?
I am asking because I have a ton of ceramic caps laying around and it so happens SOME of them seem to fit the values needed for the lower volt/low uf caps.