Quote:
Originally Posted by jsowers
I had one of these when I was a kid too, in the 1970s. Mine was a sort of mustard yellow color. The filter cap finally went on mine and I just used the clock. It has three clear plastic knobs on the clock that are missing on yours.
Here is the schematic and parts list and tube diagram, on Radiomuseum:
http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/general_el_660.html
You can download up to three documents a day. I just downloaded three and they're very clear scans.
You might want to move the leads of the caps you replaced a little farther apart. One cap's lead looks like it's touching another cap. Might be an optical illusion, but I thought I'd mention it. Amazing how much smaller the caps are.
Your tubes, from the diagram, are 1U5 at the bottom, right above that is the 3V4, then to the right is 1U4 and at the very top is 1R5. That's probably the tube that's causing the problem since you have audio. The 1R5 is the oscillator-mixer tube. You may want to clean the tube sockets.
I remember my radio like this being very microphonic, in that jarring it created all kinds of odd noises sort of like a xylophone. You're not old enough to remember Tom Terrific on Captain Kangaroo, but it sounded like the sound effect used on that.
Good luck on your restoration. |
The tube filaments are wired series-parallel so they can run on 3 volts.
It's possible the 1U4 and the 1R5 are reversed, so you'll get some noise when touching the antenna.
When installing that type 'lytic, I use insulation stripped from scrap wire and small shrink sleeving. Makes for a neater job, instead of using electrical tape, but tape is better than nothing. It doesn't take much to burn out those battery tubes.
Take voltage readings with the radio and power supply connected. The selenium rectifiers might not be putting out enough voltage. The B+ should be close to 90 volts, even though, on batteries it uses only 67.5 volts "B".
I have one just like it.