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Well I'm close to calling it done. I've gone through every resistor in the set (except for a few in the sync separator and sound because those stages are doing fine), changed most of the peaking coils except for 3 50s butterscotch colored ones on the video amp boards that aren't the lousy chalk ones and in the process I have fixed 70% of the lousy J-hook connections whoever did the original recap haphazardly moused in. I also changed the HV doorknob and the large convergence doorknob capacitors to newly manufactured ones I bought off mouser and digikey a couple years ago. I discovered someone else changed the vertical convergence transformer over to the more safe/reliable reproduction (the 15KV leads with silicone insulation definitely weren't around in the 50s).
The chroma osc has drifted a few times on me during long opperation and required tweaking to dial in... I'm almost done with a 1.5 hour shake down run and so far chroma sync has been solid so I guess that problem has been licked. I got the convergence good over all but the vertical convergence especially the top just doesn't want to be perfect. Also annoying is despite it supporting a nice bright picture commercials and scenes where there is a static image that is more than 80% bright white the HV says and the focus goes out into left field till image content averages darker (but IIRC that is normal behavior for these sets).
Picture is excellent.
When I went to install the channel knob I was surprised to discover my CH13 modulator came in on CH10!...I was gearing up to align the modulator when I came upon 3 pleasant surprises... First the set was actually set to the CH13 strip and the channel plate knob wasn't indicating correct. Second the set came with UHF strips for CH15, 33 and 35, third a spare monochrome set version of the tuner that was sold to me as a 21CT55 tuner had a CH22 and 36 strip in it...I pulled the both and put the 22 strip into the blank spot in the CT100. I figured out the channel indicator knob was put together wrong and reassembled it properly. There are no UHF channel tabs on my knob and I'm debating trying to create some....I have at least 2 more channel indicator knobs (one has UHF numbers for the wrong channels)...I need to see if I happen to have anymore with the right UHF numbers.
I'm wondering if I should do more with the horizontal system...the cathode current is around 115mA (I can't find a spec to know if that's good or bad....the grid waveform has its top clipped...that issue gets better with the drive cranked up to max but I have to dial the drive down some to prevent getting a drive line. The flyback settles at about 90f on the HV winding, and 130f close to the core on the center winding after prolonged opperation...What do you think?
I also was able to touch up the missing toner lacquer on the feet... because it was patchy I used Howard's and steel wool and lot of elbow grease to remove the lacquer remnants from the feet in a clean line then I resprayed the feet with fresh toner...it isn't perfect, but I don't want to do a full refinish and it looks a heck of a lot better than it did before.
I don't know if I should fix it more or call it done and haul it up to my display room..
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