Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
Thanks for the info. Me and a friend leaned up the fuel mixture last Friday, checked the idle speed (fast idle is good, slow idle where it tends to run rough is at the upper end of the tolerance range), and checked the timing (it looks right, but it is hard to tell for certain since only the TDC mark is still readily readable).
I don't think I have time to do a full rebuild with college in session, and even if I can find the time I want to make sure I can afford and source a rebuilt carb before I try, so that if I screw it up I have a fallback option ready.
I'll try to get to checking that intake/exhaust valve when I can.
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Its a lost art....
carb work that is. Just think, at no point in your life was a carb offered on a car for sale...
Ok what you guys did, at BEST, was set the idle mixture. Lean, is actually not good, they can pollute more when too lean (lean miss)
To start off work like this you need a tool most people forget exist: vacuum gauge. At idle, what does she pull? higher number is better. before you can set any idles or mixes we gotta know if its sucking hard enuf...
the reason i said to rebuild the carb is that without knowing its pedigree, its done. its full of goo, it leaks, it smells, its corroded. The choke linkage on a 4bbl is a rather complex affair - not only does it apply the primary choke when cold and pull it off slowly, and idle step, it also has to lock out the secondaries in all but WOT operations.
too many times, the idle steps come off too fast, while the temps are too low. the emission strategies were always to get it off fast idle, rich mix as soon as possible, but this was never taken that seriously or done effectively until the early 80s. In the rebuild kit, will be the steps you need to initially set up the carb to have a good baseline.