Quote:
Originally Posted by Lain94
So the two wire winding is usually a pretty simple fix then? Sounds like I am better off replacing the wire in that situation as opposed to using lots of corona dope to fight with the old wire insulation. What is the gauge typically of this wire? Why does it seem to me that anytime I have had flyback arcing occuring in one of these old tvs, it seems to always happen from the 2 wire winding as opposed to the main rubber tire (that is what I call it, or if I have not had lunch yet a chocolate mini hostess donut)
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Yes replacing the wire is better and easier...Just access the solder lugs on the HV rect socket, desolder the old wire, make sure the new wire makes the same number of turns around the flyback frame and solder in the new wire. Some techs will just delete the rect heater winding and install a SS tube replacement and I've had luck with that too.
I have no clue what the guage is (it only carries the rect filament current so it doesn't have to be particularly thick), but the insulation HAS TO BE rated at least 20KV (30KV is preferable) for monochrome and 30KV (40KV is preferable) for color.
The reason the filament winding arcs to the frame but the doughnut rarely does is that the frame is grounded and the filament winding has the full 8-25KV of the set on it with only one piece of insulation separating it from ground. The center windings of the doughnut have the lowest voltage on them (sometimes their grounded, but often their 100-450V above ground) so if the higher voltage windings of the doughnut closer to the outside have insulation failure they're usually more likely to arc to the lower voltage windings... Eventually creating a carbon track which eventually shorts out the flyback and kills it.