Quote:
Originally Posted by bob91343
Yes the correct designation is 1-v, pronounced one vee. Of course a silicon diode will work, with the associated resistor.
|
Yes, but where's the joy in that while 1V and equivalents are still around? If it wasn't a huge part of the visual presentation of the front panel, sure. Even if I did just bung a tube with a good heater in the socket for looks it'd still keep me awake at night just knowing...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen
Here's a photo of mine. Simple, but does have some nice finger joints. I'm not sure of the species - oak ? maple ?
|
Oh dear. If
you can't identify the species, what hope do the rest of us with significantly less hands-on experience have?
I might have to consult one of the local Amish artisans for a professional opinion then. (I was thinking ash or poplar.
Pretty sure it isn't maple.(Edit: I'm bad at wood identification.))
It is finished with shellac, right? Or is it something like tung oil?
Quote:
Originally Posted by powerking
Below are a few more Pic's of the box/cabinet (what it originally looked like). I also have to cut a piece of leather for the replacement carry strap.
|
Looking at everyone's pictures it almost appears that they built the 4 sides of the box and then ran the whole assembly through a bandsaw to divide the main body from the lid portion. Grain lines up and everything. They sure don't put that kind of effort into modern mass produced wood things.
I also noted that a replacement cabinet was available for
$3.50! At $15.07 piece-meal replacement cost for everything to make one unit, the cabinet alone makes up almost 24% of the BOM total!
I know some of you collect vintage printed media, anybody have a catalog page or other advertisement for these things? They probably list the type of wood used in the cabinet along with the other features and functions. I'd also be curious to know what the original selling price was, I'm figuring probably $19-$24 because you sourced your own tubes according to the manual.
Mine is currently in the hands of the USPS. Kansas to Pennsylvania so I'm hoping they don't have too much time to damage it. Only time will tell.
I'll also bring your attention to the fact that there's a bunch of new manufacture very reasonably priced NE-48 (B9A) glass and metal neon bulbs for these (and so much other vintage gear) up for sale on the auction site. I finally managed to find Bob's original post about his CB-1-60 and he mentioned that glass bulbs were pricey at the time, but a very cheap and nasty looking plastic functional equivalent was available. Not sure if anyone has brought it up recently or not. I'm still telling myself that I'm not going to get a beat up box full of broken glass and wood next week, but I'm exploring all of my possible contingencies should that come to pass. I wouldn't be worried except for the fact that the seller expressly mentioned "for steampunk" in the main description. That's always a sign of a fully qualified package-smith, you can bank on that!
At least they didn't plug it in.
One last question in this morning's rambling post:
R7, 8, 9, 10, 11. One unit construction? That's the tapped Canned-Ohm bit, correct? Is it 36kOhms end to end, 5 sections at 36kOhm each, or something way less intuitive with each section being some randomly determined secret value adding up to 36kOhms end to end?
I'm vaguely familiar with a wein bridge, but I'm not 100% sure that the divider is only used for the leakage test and doesn't interact with the bridge for value determination. What I'm asking is should this be on my list of things to go precision tolerance on for best overall accuracy, or is it just controlling the leakage test values and could be replaced with 5% 1w units if mine is missing the magic smoke?
Final rambling thought: I love how resistor prices have more or less remained the same for single quantity mail-order type purchases despite inflation in the last 70 years.
Thank you all again for your advice and opinions! They are much appreciated.
--NoPegs