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Hello again,
Great progress indeed!
Here are a few things to consider, regarding the picture.
You must have high-voltage on the CRT second anode (the terminal on the
side of the CRT with a funny cable ending in a round piece of rubber-like material).
Testing for high-voltage without a HV probe can be tricky, but there are a number
of simple things you can check. You said you tested most of the tubes. Did
that include the HV rectifier inside the metal cage? With power off, and chassis
DISCONNECTED from the line, you can remove the cover of the cage, undo the
top cap of the 1X2A tube and pull it. Be careful when setting your tube tester,
this heater takes a very low voltage.
Also, in the third picture of your post number 19, you showed the rear side of
the horizontal output (=flyback) transformer. I notice that a big yellow capacitor
has traces of heating on it, it would be a good idea to replace it. There is also
another capacitor, a red tubular one with capacitance unreadable, connected
to the damper tube (12AX4GTA). See the resistor alongside this capacitor?
Il looks like it took a beating, the color bands are unreadable. It would be a good
idea to check this against the schematic and replace if necessary.
You may also want to take voltage readings at the CRT electrodes. If you trace
the wires from the CRT socket to the chassis, you should be able to find in particular
those that go to the cathode (pin 11) and grid 1 (pin 2). On the cathode,
according to the schematic, you should get +113 V, and on the grid you should
have somewhere between roughly 0 and +120 V, depending on the brightness
setting.
Also, be sure to measure the cathode voltage on the 12C5 audio output tube
(point V). This tube operates as a voltage divider to provide plate voltage
to many stages in the receiver. The nominal value shown on the schematic
is 132 V. This will confirm that most of the stages are drawing the correct
amount of current.
Good luck, keep the news coming!
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