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If it costs more to fix it then it's worth cut your losses.
I kinda plan to drive my suburban till it rusts in half or gets totalled, then pull the LS motor and trans to reuse on some future 50s car for my collection. If it wasn't for dropping the rear end I'd almost suggest the evap as a DIY task...I pretty much do everything that I possibly can do on my truck myself (everything from oil changes on up to brake work and pulling the transfer case), unless something that can't wait unexpectedly fails in winter...Then I usually find a shop... Except that one time the battery crapped out in the driveway and the captive nut spun and I had to pull open the inner fender in the snow to fix that...Good times. :thmbsdn:
The body on my truck has multiple rust holes, a couple years into owning it I found the Bondo patches when the metal around them rusted, then lacking a welder I used a 75W soldering iron to solder in steel patched after cutting out the rust and bondoed over that...That was before the pandemic, and it's about due for round 2 of that...It looks like holes formed in exciting new places. The one good thing with mine is the frame has held up better than the body... It don't have to look great it just has to work...Till I have a house and save up enough for a better SUV.
I've heard Pennsylvania is infamous for salting their roads so bad it ruins cars. I think whoever sold it to you didn't winter drive it and lied about why it wasn't rusty.
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