Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech
Just a wag, but is the switch on the power factor pot working ok? might try some De-Ox on it. If the switch is closing ok are the 3 resistors connected to it ok and connected correctly? If the 1k was swapped with the 470k, the switch would have little effect on the current supplied to charge the cap in leakage mode.
jr
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Ok, the Knight is now working and this statement early on at least put me in the right area. It turns out that the builder wired the 220K and the 470K Ohm resistors so that they were parallel to one another when the switch closed when switch closure by my take on the schematic is supposed to short the two resistances. In simpler terms everything was wired 90 degrees off. And remember the S2 function selector was 180 deg off. My God, its a wonder the thing didn't go up in flames!. The guy did a decent job otherwise as far as termination and such, so it really took some looking to find his mistakes. Then there were my mistakes ie:
"I will check the switch. I assumed it was working as when in bridge mode the pot will alter the eye opening. At first there was flutter as the pot was dirty, but I cleaned that early on. I will have to look at things like the two resistors potentially not being connected correctly. Anything could be connected wrong if the builder installed the wafer function switch upside down. "
First, I only verified mechanical opening and closing of the switch. Second, the pot alters the eye in electrolytic mode (I meant that the S2 was in a bridge function at the time). Third, the potentiometer action really has nothing to do with the condition of the switch. The last part of my statement was as it turns out the answer.
So now I have a brand new/old Knight cap checker to add to my collection.
Thanks as always to everyone for the pointers and comments.