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Yikes, one google search showed a million TV's with that badge. Never knew a company would keep using a model number over and over like that. The chassis number on this one is EC-338w according to the sticker, and the tube model is 13vaup22. I looked up sam's photofact and unfortunatly $22 is something I can't swing, especially for a Tv I'm learning on. That causes a lot of issues with figuring out voltages but I can still poke around for anything obviously bad.
Yes Eric H, I hear the crackle of high voltage on the screen and get the static effect on my hand. Last I powered it up my friend noted that the heaters were not lighting up, but we didn't turn the lights out (we have a habit of watching for smoke when putting anything on a Variac). We did find that the pins on the back of the tube were getting voltage though, so that may be good.
I started looking at the board attached to the neck and found this part that I don't really know what it is, but if the bands are the same as resistor bands it is certainly bad. The part reads 10ohms and makes the meter squeal. Years of working on audio and I've never seen a part like this, but that's why tv's are an adventure. A picture of the part is attached.
One of the confusing things about this part is that it is beside a 2700ohm resistor. Both parts are going to and coming from the same place, so why would a near shorted part be next to a 2700ohm resistor? When looking at the board and how it's built it's hard to see how this part missing or bad would change much of anything, but a bad part is a bad part.
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