Thank you for that. Now I get it.
I was able to track the problem to a shorted filter capacitor (10uf/450V) in the decoupled boost supply that took out a 4.7k resistor. I replaced those pieces and now could hear the horizontal oscillator running (the frequency sounds low to me, especially for PAL).
But I still had no high voltage, and no screen illumination, so I started poking around. I didn't measure the plate of the horizontal output tube since Sams always says DNM on those, but checked the cathode and had about 10V, so presumably there was current flowing through the tube.
I decided to look at the grid with a scope to see if I have any drive, and got a waveform that resembles those I see in tube TV schematics, sort of a cross between a sinewave and a sawtooth. I saw pretty much the same thing on the HORIZ GRID DRIVE jack, and the grid of the top half of the 6FQ7 horiz osc; the moment I touched the probe to the grid of the bottom half of this tube, the horizontal oscillator got much, much louder (still at a frequency that I don't think seems high enough but not really sure), and checking again I have about 4KV of high voltage - no idea what the number should be, there are no voltages on the schematic. And still no raster.
I have double-checked the PCB and don't think it was a mechanical change I made to the circuit when I touched that grid, and poking around further didn't cause any other change. It would really be helpful to have some voltage measurements. Tomorrow I'll get back to it, but for today I'm pretty excited about the progress. Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.