Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill R
That is all of the model tag. The chassis number is on a tag usually on the rear of the chassis. It will begin with T-XXX
|
I'll take a look again, but it looked like it was a two part tag and only the words chassis # is left.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM
there is a good chance it will work just fine as is (most likely the only issue will be dirty pots). that era had pretty good caps in it, including the cans.
If it was mine I would pull the horz out and the vert out tubes, variac it slowly monitor the B+ to see if it comes up, and check to see if the cans get warm, I generally do this over a period of time (hours) to give the cans a chance to reform.
Stop at about 80vac input, there is no load on the B+ with the sweep tubes out.
Pulling the tubes mentioned is done since they are osc tubes and may not like the low power. If all goes well I put the tubes back in, hook up a current meter to the horz out cathode, and a HV prob to the anode and do a full power start, keeping an eye on both the horz out current and the HV. Look for horz current to be around 200ma and the HV not to go over 25kv. If either go too high I shut down and look for problems before trying again.
often wiggling tubes will correct problems, so that should be tried 1st depending on the faults that show up (in case the above startup does not result in a working set). beyond that you have to apply regular diagnosis skills.
|
Thanks for that! It would be nice if it just powered up with out any issues, not really normal for me :P Its a good thing I bought a huge can of dexoit....so many post and connectors on this thing.
If anyone could supply a sams for it, that would be awesome, I have lightly dabbled in tvs...and never found it really exciting...so it would nice to have some sort of guide on where to probe and the values. This thing looks to have a lot going on inside..