[TinCanAlley]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

It wasn't clear from your earlier posts what info was known for sure or whether it was from assumptions.
It wasn't clear from the pictures what color wire went to which locations in the rectangular connector or how the connector pins were numbered.
I can state categorically that your assumption that the tester uses the same voltages on the pins as the monitor is wrong. The tester makes no attempt to light up the screen which is the whole point of much of the monitor circuits, HV is not applied for instance. I suppose you have some documentation that the heater voltage should be 12V.
Your assumption that you should use the same settings for this CRT as those found in the tester info may or may not to correct.
During the emission test the tester connects the cathode and G1 together which means the G1 voltage isn't used at all.
As you noticed you could make the emission reading good or bad just by changing the G2 voltage setting.
If you used the tester successfully before that would help rule out operator error on the cutoff test, it isn't clear you answered that question.
The two faults common on old monitor CRT are emission and burnt phosphor screen.
The good news is that the emission test is working, you just don't know the results are accurate. If G2 is not connected I don't see how the emission test would work correctly, maybe G3 or G4 is connected instead because the wiring is incorrect. This tester wouldn't give you any idea about the screen anyway.
Does the monitor info that shows the socket voltage indicate whether the voltages apply with a good signal to the monitor or without input signals?
The voltages may apply to the case without signals in which case the screen might be blanked, the cathode-G1 bias looks like it may be that way.

The schematics for the monitor show the heater getting 14.9V, but the tester only goes up to 14. I settled on 12 as the base, but put it as high as 14.

I was under the assumption that the tester could provide up to 450V for G2? Their next model up has a setting for 300V or 600V G2.

I know the unit doesn't provide the HV necessary to light up the CRT.

I used it last on a CRT in a Zenith Avante and it worked as expected. Each color gun was set using their respective G2 control. Each one moved the needle up one division on the meter. So at that time, the unit was working correctly. I can't guarantee it is still working, but I guess I could connect it back to the Zenith and verify.

Yeah, the pic of the connector was more for a visual of what the connector looked like. In the pic you can see the metal pins and on the bottom row (with just 2 pins), one is location 10, when that pin should be in location 9.

The tester manual says that all B&W tubes as well as projection should use the G2 control marked RED/B&W. I emailed BK and they said all monochrome CRTs use that single G2 control. Too bad the person couldn't explain the socket wiring issue, but they haven't made or truly support these things for a number of years.