Pretty sure the end that + is nearest is the positive end.
That cap looks like it was made in the 70's. As a general rule, you always want to use new or under 3-year-old electrolytics caps made in this mileneia are failing from age already that part looks like almost as much of a gamble as the originals.
I don't know how familiar you are with sourcing caps, but here is some advice anyway under most parts house web sites there will be passive components listed capacitors will be under them, Lytics will probably be listed as aluminum electrolytic, papers will be replaced by film types, other capacitor types can mostly be ignored. Most originals are of an outdated standard value selection the values 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 have been replaced with 22, 33, 47, 56 respectively (the industry transition happened from the 1940's-70's). So order a 56uF to replace the 60. The original lytic caps had a -50% +100% tolerance so there is tremendous fudge factor in choosing a replacement, but the closest modern standard value is recommended. Voltage rating: is the maximum voltage that can appear across the terminals before the lytic will fail and explode(or vent it's guts in a messy mineral oil steam)...You can select a new cap with a higher voltage rating (higher voltage cost money, and is bigger and less easy to fit so it pays not to go too wild) and the set may even be more rugged because of it, but never select a lover voltage (your new cap will die quickly if you do). When buying from one of the parts houses with a search engine with lots of options I first check the "stocked" box so I'm not waiting 6 months for the factory to make more. I also will select all voltages at or above what I need for a lytic, then capacitances close to the value, then sort by price and look at brands I have confidence in (Panasonic, Nichicon, Illinois Capacitor, etc.) and sometimes compare things like lead length, size and mounting in making the final choice. Honestly once you've got the correct value and a good brand you can't go wrong electrically (though good choices after can make mounting easier). On paper caps go with 630V for everything unless there is a higher voltage part in the set (get the correct voltage for that)...Going lower for some parts to save money/room is not worth the effort for paper/film replacemet.
Here are a couple of links to play with:
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...ors/_/N-75hqt/
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...ors/_/N-9x371/
You can craft an order of the parts you need off of the schematic parts list. New film caps are rated in pF and the body markings are 2 value digits and a multiplier. So a cap marked 153k is 15000pF=.015uF In sams most caps with a voltage rating are paper, and most that start with a "." or are 1000 (pF) or more are paper, the first few are lytic and you can confirm by looking for polarity on the schematic.
The white tubular caps in some of your chassis pictures and the bumblebee paper caps (they look like giant black resistors with color stripes) are as much time bombs as the original lytics.
Damn, I dumped a lot of info on you. Sorry if any is old hat, TMI, or confusing. If you have any questions just ask.