Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony V
What i did on one of mine was remove the mask to get at the original mounting bolts and replaced them with longer ones. I then reused the plastic housing which slid back in place as it is only slid out about an inch and a half from the original crt position hence the longer bolts. Of course i had to take a hole saw to the side of the housing so i could hook up the anode lead. The outer magnets and hardware were removed from the mask. The good thing about this route is everything can be put back original if a good 21axp22 is found or if the old one can be rebuilt. The chassis had to be slid back an inch because two tubes were right up against the housing but this might not be an issue depending on what cabinet you have.
|
I ended up trying Tony 's approach to mounting a 21FJP22a crt in the CTC5.
Four longer bolts and cutting a hole for the HV lead.
I encountered two issues and was wondering if Tony had the same issues? One is that the deflection yoke is now 1.5 to 2 inches further back from where it used to be positioned. Tony do you remember if you made any changes to reset the deflection yoke?
The other is arcing that looks like lightning across the sky between the inner old plastic cover and the dag coated crt. In my case I have grounded inside and outside of the plastic cover. I also grounded the crt's dag. The charge builds up, discharges then does it again. How large is the diameter of the hole you drilled for the HV anode lead? If I enlarge the hole I already have , I'll start cutting into the plastic cover's ribbing.
A few pictures of the first tests tonight. I think all three color guns are working. When I tested this crt a few months ago the green tested the weakest.
If anyone has encountered the same issues, please feel free to chime in.
Thank ,
Ed