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Wow!..I've been gone a long time for all this to have happened in my absence.
A few of my opinions on the restoration so far....
Great job on the bottom. I'd have painted both sides of the new bottom the same shade of maroon-ish red that the inside of the cabinet is painted for better originality. Also unless you are convinced that the bottom metal service panel will rust again you really should not have painted it....It was originally bare metal and part of the reason it was bare was to connect to the metal grounding strap(seen in one of the photos of the original bottom) which connected it to the chassis so it could serve as an electromagnetic shield. It may work fine without the bottom acting as a shield, but I would not chance it in any of my sets.
Also I cringed when I read your comment about using a sledge-hammer and chisel on the CRT safety glass. Sledge hammer + CRT = IMPLOSION in my book. EVEN on the bonded tubes that have cateracts it is a VERY bad move to chisel off the safety glass....There are several methods to remove a bonded safety glass intact so that it can be reattached in a better way.
All that said I believe that yours is a non-bonded type. and thus the safety glass may be fine as is. I would take some windex and paper towels and clean the face of the CRT, and check if there appears to be any noticeable dirt in-between. If not leave well enough alone. If there is dirt check if the only thing holding the safety glass on is a rubber gasket. If so then it is a non-bonded type and is fairly easy to remove. To remove it I recommend prying with your fingers, but if the rubber is degraded into glue then you may need to cut the rubber with an exacto-knife to remove the glass intact and clean off the rubber with Goof-off. Once the glass is off clean the inside and face of the tube as spotless as you can and re-attach the glass. There are several methods. Some make a new gasket from whether stripping or some such. Some use 1/8 inch thick 1/4 wide double sided foam tape around the perimeter to hold the glass on. Some use short strips of said foam tape as spacers and use packing tape to prevent dirt and air from getting between the glass and the CRT, and others still use the tape as spacers, but use silicone caulk to seal the glass back on. be careful not to get tape or caulk too near to the viewable area as if it obstructs the viewable area it will annoy the crud out of you and if the mask does not hide your reattachment of the glass it will look really shoddy and ugly.
Unless the plywood is badly warped and or delaminated why go to the effort of changing the side and top panels? If they are just loose from the frame reglue them and refinish. If the veneer is gouged use a damp towel and a clothes iron to try to steam the wood level, and if that fails wood filler or putting fresh veneer on should work well. You don't change every part on a chassis when new capacitors and a bit of trouble shooting are all that is needed for it to be good as new so why completely rebuild a cabinet that seems to only need body work?
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