[dtvmcdonald]

My goals may be different from some. Here they are,
in order of higher to lower importance:

1) Make the set work as originally intended, receiving signals
at RF with full exact NTSC specs: including correct Q signal
with 0.5 MHz double sideband and I with 0.5 and lower with 1.5
MHz bandwidth, even if
I have to create these myself from RGB output of a DVD player.

2) Leave the top view of the chassis unchanged as far as
possible. If there are bad controls I will try to find proper looking ones.
There is a white peaking coil there, which I will replace,
and a paper cap. The cap will be restuffed and I will make a little
paper cap to cover the new coil, not perfect but will do.

3)Save all removed or replaced parts. I have made a 100 megapixel
image of the chassis bottom so that a future owner could
do a full restuff with proper placement. I'm not going to restuff
anything under the chassis.

4) Leave the horribly dirty areas as clean as reasonable. This
is not a 60's Tektronix scope, where the factory manual
says to start a calibration with a good hosing down and sun dry!
Water or even gallons of alcohol would damage coils. The cleaning
has to be done with paper towels and Q-tips. Wires on the
chassis top and insides the cages are filthy and slimy. Goop followed
by alcohol seems to be the cure.

That said, I have decided to not restuff the can electrolytics ..
doing it without damage while unsoldering them from
the chassis would be a nightmare and possibly beyond my skill.

I'm going to compromise on point 1 above and remove the seleniums
and install silicon diodes, their series resistors, and the new
electrolytic caps for the power supply in the cage
mounted on a fiberglass perf board. The board and caps
will be painted bright orange. That will have to do for "the look"
inside the cage.

Doug McDonald