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Some recapping advice: never go lower on voltage rating (you can go higher, although more than double typically isn't recommended), but never lower. There are pre-war and post-war standard capacitance values. Both coexisted in the 50s-70s but the pre-war values are either NLA or stupid expensive. Prewar standard capacitance uF values were 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, post-war values are 10, 22, 33, 39, 47, 56, 68, 82 and various decimal relocations there of. Don't waste your money on pre-war value parts....Get the closest post war capacitance value and you'll be fine (especially on lytics where the original tolerance was shockingly broad). On multi-section electrolytic caps use several single section caps to replace it....There are companies that make replacement multi-section caps but they are generally not worth it unless you are restoring a holy grail model worth 4 figures.
Short leads can make things harder. Just radios and Bob's capacitors both only sell parts with good lead length, but are more expensive and shipping takes a long time. I typically buy from Mouser or digikey. For lytics I favor Panasonic, Nichicon, and Illinois Capacitor, for film caps Panasonic (especially the red ceramic cased film caps), Illinois Capacitor, and WIMA. You have to look at the data sheets and part numbers to make sure you're ordering the long lead film caps.
Don't replace capacitors under 1000pF/uuF which are almost always mica...On the flip side caps 1000pF=.001uF are just about always paper (and should be replaced) even if they're disguised in the same domino cases associated with micas.
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