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Old 08-23-2018, 10:40 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,810
Quote:
Originally Posted by user181 View Post
OK. I have a desoldering iron with integral vacuum bulb. Hope that will be appropriate.

When you were working on the board, was it pretty straight-forward to move it up into the service position? I know this is described in the service manual, but it's always nice to have a real-world description of it too.

You usually don't even need to plug in a 150W iron, as the terminals will quiver in fear & heat up on their own if you come near them with an iron that size. ;-)

I understand. The good thing about it is that at least these are through-hole ICs, rather than surface mount.
Basically, there are two clips near the front (CRT side) of the 'chassis' that let all the boards slide back. I needed to unplug one cable from a small board tucked in between the flyback board and the side edge bacuse it did not have enough slack...One or two of the wires with slack may tend to tangle/hang up part way through sliding back, but will come loose with help.

98% of the equipment I work on is old 1930's-early70's tube electronics with pea sized solder joints and soldered chassis grounds. That cattle prod iron makes those dinosaurs faster to service since I don't have to wait the 10 sec - 5 min a weaker iron takes to heat up a massive solder joint...I like all my soldering on tube gear to be instant melt for speedy repair. I usually do keep a lower watt iron warm for tight spaces and delicate work on my tube stuff, but prefer the big one where usable. I'm a 'bring a gun to a knife fight' type of person.
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