Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
Note: when cleaning the above chassis take care not to leave any rust, dag flakes, solder splash, other conductive stuff on those above chassis terminals... I've seen dag flakes burn up, and I've seen power resistors burn up from a solder blob short (that I made resoldering stuff in the HV cage). Those exposed terminals are great for troubleshooting till conductive crap lands on them...Then things go downhill fast.
By the 60's most 'paper' caps had mylar in them(as part of the paper dielectric layer) or were really full mylar caps. Most 60's and newer sets don't 'need' the paper caps changed since the mylar prevents leakage...Granted the paper/mylar sandwich types tend to drift in capacitance as the paper degrades which can be an issue.
Mid 50's and older sets (late 50's early 60's was the transition to mylar) used full paper dielectric caps and lit from the paper cap era does warn of bad caps...If you do 50's sets and know what stock caps and soldering look like, then you'll find many 50's sets had several paper caps changed when close to new.
Sets ~1964 and newer I don't change anything but the lytics unless I have confirmation/diagnosis of cause of failure.
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oh, wow so what am I recapping then? This set is from the late 60's or early 70's. I assumed it was customary to swap out all the capacitors with any old set. By the way, I should be more clear with my terminology. I think I am using the wrong term. When I say paper caps, I think they aren't really paper, more film drop type. I might open this thing up again soon, I will take some pictures. I am trying to come up with a game plan for the electrolytics currently.