I traced out the wiring for the remaining electolytic caps and strategical located them where I could. Also discovered a fried resistor and replaced it.
Ready for a power up attempt.
No smoke, but also no vertical deflection. The replacement CRT in this set tests like new but has a badly burned line into it. I suspect it's been run for some time like this.
It took me a better part of a day to find the problem. Would have taken a lot less if I had immediately done a resistance check on the vertical tube pins can compared to Sams.
Instead I had puttered around with swapping tubes and replacing parts in the vertical circuit.
The real problem was an open vertical linearity control. That's a wirewound control riveted to the back of the chassis and apparently a common failure point.
I tacked in a 560 ohm resistor while I track down a replacement.
Yay, a raster!
and with a better signal source, a stable image. No sound though.
Something else I battled with was a damped tube that wouldn't stay lit. I had to keep applying pressure on the side of the tube. I assumed it was a bad socket or broken PCB trace.
Here's my quick fix. I soldered a wire directly to the filament pin that wasn't making good contact.
Again, a little closer observation and better troubleshooting would have found the real problem sooner.
I was a broken PCB grounding stake nearby. All of the tube filament have one side grounded and this broken one supplies the damper tube and not much else. My applying pressur to the tube was really flex the PCB for the stake would make contact.
