[maxhifi]

That splicer is the old style, which is supposed to be used with film cement. I have quite a similar one, made by Eastman Kodak, and it works just fine.

The problem with this type of splicer, is it cuts out frames, so people with really expensive films prefer a tape splicer. There's two kinds of tape splicers, one uses "press-tape", which is small sections of tape with perforations in them already. The other takes a roll of tape, and punches the perforations. The second kind is what serious film enthusiasts swear by and own. I don't have one yet, because they're expensive, and I'm pretty new to all this film stuff still. I also don't have any virgin films, mine are mostly full of splices and scratches already, so a few more won't hurt anything.

The other disadvantage to the cement type splicer, is the only work with acetate film, not with the more modern polyester based film stock which some newer prints have.

I use home made film cement. I make it by dissolving little bits of film into acetone. It works just as well as the stuff Kodak used to make, but stopped production.

If you're serious about all this, get a projector first, and take the time to restore it really well. Don't buy the first one you find, but carefully research which kind of projector will be best for what you need it for. There's a lot of factors involved, and everyone has an opinion, it's like asking someone what car is the best. I am using a DeVry projector from 1946. It took a lot of work to make it reliable, and I did it against the advice of people who suggested a more modern machine will be better. I did it because it belonged to my family since the 1950s, and I wanted to keep this specific projector. I had to buy a new lens, to learn how to re-silver a mirror, to make new rollers to replace some lost, to make new rubber rollers from scratch - to rebuild the amplifier, replace the projection lamp, and modify the case to fit 2000 foot reels. I also had to rebuild the motor's speed controller to get it to run properly at 24 frames per second. It was really a lot of work, looking back it would have made economic and practical sense to buy a 1980s Bell and Howell projector instead. On the other hand, I really like having the old 1940s equipment. Also, in silent mode you can adjust the speed properly. A lot of projectors run way too fast in silent mode - old movies should be 16 frames per second, and watching them at 24 really ruins the pace of a movie. Battleship Potemkin is a good example, it's schizophrenic to watch at 24 fps.