Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealtest
I live near knoxville, so it is very unlikely anyone around here would know much about something like this. Very few people around here mess with electronics. In this area I'm the "electronics guy" so I'm mostly on my own.
As for recapping, I shotgunned the thing. The only original caps left are the big metal multicaps. Parts still need to be ordered, but I forgot about it due to having a million projects.
I did not do the screwdiver test, but instead used a grounded multimeter to get a precise reading. On the top of the tube, the cap archs and reads really high. Enough to max out the meter. The plunger that attatches to the tube only reads around 20v, so that is certainly a problem.. Guess the tube is the issue, but it worked before to an extent.
Also I do not have any schematics for this tv, but have been looking for something I don't have to pay a ton for. I have to admit, this isn't the best hobby for a collage student.. It sure can be fun though.
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That multimeter is probably ruined (or you are not getting enough voltage there). NEVER measure voltages on the top caps of tubes connected to the fly or the HV with a normal multimeter. Damper elements and the HV to the CRT are also points not to measure with a DMM. The top cap of the HV rect usually has 10KV-20KV AC spikes, the top cap of the H output 1KV-5KV AC and the CRT HV is usually 8KV-25KV (increases with screen size)....Most multimeters are rated for 500V-1KV max input. If you don't have a HV prove designed to measure over 20KV don't try to measure....Another reason to have the schematic it will tell you where NOT to measure voltages.
I'll check my duplicate sam's...If I have the service info then you can have it for $3 plus postage.