View Single Post
  #11  
Old 03-23-2018, 08:55 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
M is for Memory
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks View Post
I think I understand what you're saying. Leave it alone, disconnect it from beneath and put the new capacitor underneath. Neat idea. I have also read about rebuilding them and stuffing the new ones inside.

PS...If I forget the NOS Zenith stuff in the picture I will need the following:

1) 150uf-350v, 100uf-350v, 200uf-25v

2) 4uf-350v, 10uf-400v, 20uf-25v

I have been looking at all the major sites they don't seem to have capacitors with these three values each in 1 can. I was looking at that thread where the can went through the roof so I may want to avoid using the old and dried out NOS stuff after all.
For the most part, having 3+ sections in 1 can is something that died with FP twist lock style cans...It is fine/normal practice to use 3 individual caps to replace one 3 section twist lock. Most twist locks have the can as the common negative to each section. Some capacitance values like multiples of 2,3,4,5 are not made anymore and have been supplanted with 2.2,3.3,4.7,etc. You can fudge the capacitance values a decent bit and be fine. The original parts often had +100%/-50% capacitance tolerance so anything close in value capacitance wise will be fine.

Voltage you can only fudge upwards...The voltage rating of a cap is the max input voltage it can take without going bang(!)...If you replace a 150V with a 200V part the 200V can take more abuse before going bang. If you replace a 150V with a 50V the 50 will probably have ~100V on it and go bang quickly.
__________________
Tom C.

Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
Reply With Quote