Finished the Model 20 cabinet a couple of weeks ago.
The most difficult issue was replicating the missing metal trim (collar) for the ground port at the back of the set. The only thing I could figure out was to make a plaster impression and epoxy putty cast. The original trim is thin stamped or pressed metal, so the epoxy duplicate is very delicate. It took me two full days to get it to look right.
With the radio restoration complete, I went on to part II of the project: So far I'd powered the set with an ARBE III. Now I need a dedicated power supply. Three years ago I made a power supply for an Atwater Kent Model 30 by stuffing an Antique Electronic Supply Battery Eliminator Kit into a Bosch Nobattry Case. Then, when they were on sale, I bought two more K-101A kits for future projects. I used all of my miraculous abilities to make this power supply look vintage-ish and Atwater Kent-ish.
I shoe-horned a K-101A kit into a box that was too narrow and too short. To compound the crowding issue, I added a vintage toggle switch (from an AK42), six voltage terminals (from a Radiola 28 A/C conversion kit), and an on/off indicator light (don't know where the red lens came from).
Incidentally, in response to the comment about the speaker: That's just a utility speaker I use during restoration. This set will be paired with an AK Model H horn. I'll post a family photo when I get them together.
QUESTION: On voltage terminals for battery or battery eliminator connections, one or two terminals are brass with brass screws. In the Radiola 28 set of nine terminals, two are brass and seven are brass with plating plating and steel screws. Which terminals should be brass, and why?
- Henry