Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno
Be sure to clean the function switch real good.
After that its a case of injecting or tracing signals.
After the pre amps there will be a coupling cap to the PA's. From
that point everything is direct coupled so things get a little
more tricky. Run it a few minutes & see if either channel is getting hot.
When outputs short often the "bad" channel sounds better. The "good"
gets low B+ & barely works. Confusing !
A manual would be nice but in the amps the mirror image makes
things quite doable.
BTW with direct coupled PA's its best to change all semi's & lytic
caps in the bad stage. If you leave a leaky transistor behind everything
goes again. Especially on high power amps. Takes a microsecond to
blow everything out again.
73 Zeno 
LFOD ! |
Well the mode switch I've tried to clean 4 times already, and I'm still not getting anything out of the left channel.
I have a picture of the amplifier board below so you can see what it looks like.
This thing does have a power transformer inside it, which is kind of unheard of for some of the lower end receivers from that time period, which means this was probably a decently made lower end unit, and the case is made of real wood, which means that this was made before they cheapened these things up by eliminating the power transformer and going to faux wood cabinets.
Like I said, I don't think the amplifier is the issue otherwise I wouldn't of been able to get a signal from my signal generator through.