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it's in pretty rough shape by the looks of it. unfortunately, the commercial versions rarely have a sam's, but you might be able to find a consumer equivalent that has a fairly similar PCB in it.
any set i've worked on from that time period has always had a bunch of bad caps in it, and frequently bad transistors or even resistors in them. resistors that see a lot of heat can cook and die. anything anywhere around the deflection and power supply you should suspect and test
honestly wouldn't be worth it if you can't get the flyback, and you wanna test the strength of the tube as well
would be a real shame to spend a bunch of time and money fixing up a set just to find it has a dim tube, etc
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