The first thing I did was to add the 3 E-Caps to the board. A big thanks to Bob Andersen for this method.
For the 100uf 50V cap I'm using a 100uf 160V cap. There are 2 area that are already "cleared off" and tinned for the cap! All you have to do is drill 2 holes. I used a 1/32 PCB drill bit. The holes are drilled in the pad just south of the "Vert Lin" screening. Here is a picture of where I drilled:
For the 10uf 450V cap I used a 10uf 450V cap. There is a small square where the "+" lead will go and you have to drill a hole next to the square for the "-" lead. Again, I used a 1/32 drill bit. On the next one I do, I'll drill the hole a little be further away from the ground link. Once the ground "-" hole is drilled, I scrapped off the solder mask and cleaned an area around the hole of the copper trace so I could solder. This is the only time you need to do this. The last cap goes into existing holes. More on that next.
For the last cap a 20uf 350V cap I used a 22uf 450V cap. This cap will be placed into the lower 2 boxes labeled "WR1". See the above picture for their location. The left hand hole is ground so the "-" lead goes there. The "+" lead goes in the right hand hole. This hole is connected to the box just north of it. I then took a white/green wire I previously removed when I removed the old E-Cap and wrapped it around the stud labeled "Audio B+", then soldered it into the that last box. Thus connecting the "+" lead to the stud. As a matter of fact, when I was removing the wires from the old E-Cap, if I just left the white/green wire on that stud and cut it about a couple of inches long, I could have used it to jumper to the last "+" box.
An overall picture of the 3 E-Caps installed on the main board.
