Good to know. I have full width now so I assume whatever was causing width issues has been repaired. Probably a leaky paper cap.
I've been taking these screenshots with the brightness and contrast at 100% in a dim room. It also takes a while to get an image from a cold start.
Time to replace that weak picture tube.
I removed the metal hoop around the screen and loosen up the yoke support. THe CT started to slide out but the base got hung up in the yoke.
Luckily, I've been in this situation before and knew an old trick - heat up the yoke. One option is to run some current through it. I opted for a heat gun. A few minutes later I had it out.
The chassis looks a little strange now.
I popped in a 5AXP4 test CRT and, wow, what a difference. Very watchable with the controls far below max. I'm optimistic the spare, rebuilt 16GP4 CRT I plan to install will work well too.
However, I did notice a strange issue. As I decreased the brightness, it dimmed more on the sides than the center.
You can get it down to where there is just a think strip visible in the middle.
I'm thinking the HV doorknob cap way be bad or there is some ripple in the power supply. There are still a few old electrolytics left. I'l tr replacing them first.
