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Old 01-28-2018, 08:13 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
M is for Memory
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Is it a Tetrad cartridge ? If so easy to get around. Just replace it with
a cartridge with the same color connector. They are just glued into the head shell & pop out easy. We ended up just stocking a few needles for them.
Only a few covered hundreds of them. Most differences were flipper arm length, 33-78, 33-33, one siders etc....

73 Zeno
LFOD !
Nope, Astatic 710 d. All I was able to find back around Christmas was a whole cart for $60....Being unemployed then the prospect of spending 3X what the player that needs it cost me (albeit I got a killer deal on that Admiral) seemed like a bad idea.
Same change in the console in this thread. http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269968

Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
Isn't it just a bent piece of thick sheet steel? Have it welded.
Most tone arm hardware is small and delicate/precise enough that welding seems like shooting flies with a bazooka...Soldering may be the way to go. I have some 150W irons the BIG old ones. Those can make new chassis ground solder points better than factory on TV and radio chassis and join steel pieces really well. The trick is to clean (sand down to fresh metal if you must) and tin the pieces with (LEAD*) solder first not in the crack but on the adjacent edges, place the crack back together as it was before the split then join the tinning with the iron, holding the pieces absolutely still till cool. One can make some surprisingly strong solder joints that way.

*ROHS can kiss my but! Silver solder takes too much heat, makes lousy joints, mixes poorly with lead joints, and flows wierdly.
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Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4

Last edited by Electronic M; 01-28-2018 at 08:17 PM.
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